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41 DRESS SACK WITH A SHAWL COLLAR.

LESSON 13.

This garment is built on the half-fitting foundation; the garment fulfills the requirements of the two-part jacket. To begin: We draw the same outlines as always from A to B; C and D is the depth—natural waist length and hip length. The width of back is built the same way; 1 is the width of back line and G is the regular box line; divide from 1 to G which makes N. Now draw a line from N to R and 2; take both sides of N, 3/4 of an inch at 4 and 5; both sides of R, 2 inches at 20 and 31; from 2 to 3 is 1 inch. Then cross lines from 4 to 21 and 2; also from 5 to 20 and 3. This completes the side seam. The garment requires an underarm seam; this under-arm seam is lost to the pocket. To mark the place for the pocket draw a line down from F to 2 inches below the waist line. Draw a line somewhat slanting to the front; now measure the pocket. The center of the pocket to 17 is 2 1/2 inches, and to 18 is also 2 1/2 inches; so the pocket measures 5 inches.

Begin to mark the underarm seam: from G to 10 is 1 inch, and from 18 to 11 is also 1 inch; draw a straight line from 10 to 11, and shape both sides as shown on diagram. The side of this garment does not require any dart and, therefore, there is no allowance in front on the waist line. The button standard for this garment is 1 1/2 inches, as for all half-fitting garments. This garment is cut with a shawl lapel. To begin, shape the neck for the garment very low from O to W down. Mark the opening at 6, then draw a line from 6 to 12; from O to 12 is 1 inch for the collar stand; from 12 to 13 is 1/6 of size, or 3 inches; from 13 to 14 is 1 inch; draw a line from 14 to O. Now measure from 13 to 15, allowing 2 1/2 inches for width of collar. Then draw a parallel line from 15 to 19, and curve from 19 to G for the original shawl lapel.

For the top collar draw a line from 14 to 22, and curve all around 14, 13, 15, 9, 19 and 23. This is the top collar. The under collar is from 9, 15, 13, 14, O and W, to 24. The top collar should be traced out before the front is cut out, and curve the side body before cutting out the pattern.

This completes the dress sack with a shawl collar.