Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/46

37 HALF FITTING FRENCH SEAM WITH NARROW BACK.

LESSON 10.

This garment is cut the same way as lesson 9 this garment changes with a narrow back at the waist and the hip lines. The beginning of this garment is the same as the others, from D to R is 1 1/2 inches and from C to S is 3 inches, from R to 2 is 1/6 of size and 1/2 inch or 3 1/2 inches for a 36 size, from S to 1 is 1 inch less than from R to S, this 2 1/2 inches from S to 1, from 2 to 4 is 3/4 of an inch, from 1 to 3 1 1/2 inch, now cross lines from 2 to 1 and from 4 to 3, now divide the back shoulder at the back from L to N makes 30, now connect a line from 30 to 1 at the waist line, also from 3 to 30 with a round line this makes the side body, at the back side body, from 5 to 27 is 1/4 of an inch, from 7 to 9 is a 1/2 inch, now draw a line from 27 to 9 and from 9 to 23,this place from 5 to 27 and 7 to 9 is only taken out, if more shaping is wanted than the regular half fitting garment, otherwise this garment is the same as the other half fittings.

The french seam at the front shoulder shall be divided the same way as the back, the dart is also the same as in the other half fitting garments. This completes the half fitting garment french seam with narrow back. For back without seam, take 3/8 of an inch off at A also from R as shown on the diagram and cross a line, 37 is the straight line at the waist, now measure from S to 1 the width of back on the waist line, measure this space and place it from 27 to 26 and draw lines from 26 to 2 and up to 30 to the back shoulder. The side body remains as always, the traced line shows the changes made for the seamless back and the other is showing the back with the seam, this completes the back without the seam.