Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/44

35 HALF FITTING JACKET, FRENCH SEAM, BROAD BACK.

LESSON 9.

This garment is drafted by all means the same way as I lie first half fitting jacket, this draft changes at the French seams. Begin the same way, from J draw a line straight against the half space between H and 1 down to 1 also mark the hip at 4 the same time. From 4 to 2 is 1 inch, now cross a line from 1to 2, from 1 to 3 is 1 inch, now cross a line from 4 to 3, from 3 to J make a round curve to meet the straight line between H and I. From M to N is 3/4 of an inch allowed for the seams which are placed at J, this seam is not placed in the center of the shoulder, as the back of this garment is broad.

From C to 5 is 3/4 of an inch, also from E to 6 is 3/4 of an inch, connect with a line from 7 to 23, from 8 to 10 is 3/4 of an inch, from 6 to 14 is also 3/4 of an inch, now cross lines from c to 10, from 10 to 14. Now measure the bust as always, from T to U is 19 1/2 inches, half of bust measurement 39, from U to V 3 inches for seams, now cross a square line from V down to 22, Y is the waist line, from Y to Z is 3/4 of an inch, from Y to 12 is 1/8 of size or 2 1/4 inches for a 36 size. Now cross a line from V to Z and 20, also from 10 to 12; from 10 to 12 is the long waist line; also correct from 10 to 14 6 inches and draw a line from 14 to 20. Now mark the dart line as always, take half of F to V, which makes X, now measure V to X and take the same amount from Z to 39. Now cross a line from X to 39 down to the bottom, 11. Now take out for the dart line on the long waist line both sides of 15. First take half of 39 and X which makes 25, from 15 to 16 is a 1/2 inch, from 15 to, 17 is 1 1/2 inches, now cross lines from 25 to 16 and 25 to 17, from 11 to 22 is 3/4 of an inch, cross a line from 16 to 22, now cross a parallel line from 16 to 17 and square line down from 40 to 19,now measure the space from 16 to 22 and place the same amount from 40 to 19, now connect 19 to 14 with a curve, now begin to make the french seam in front, measure first shoulder in front, from to 24 shall be the same as from L to M, now measure from J to N at the back, and place, the same to the front from 24 to 30. Now again measure the back shoulder from L to J, and place the same at the front shoulder from to 29, now cross a line from 29 to 25 and from, 30 to 58, these 2 lines shall be parallel.

The buttons stand for a half fitting jacket. 1 1/2 inches, the collar for this garment is also drafted the same way as any other jacket.

The curving for this garment is also the same as all other drafts.

The arm-hole shall be curved very full as the first half fitting jacket This completes the half fitting jacket with a french seam and broad back.