Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/42

33 HALF FITTING GARMENT.

LESSON 8. This garment begins the same way as the others, with the exception of its style, which is half fitted; this diagram is also followed by the same measurement as all other drafts.

To begin, measure the depth of natural waist length and hip length at A, B, C to D as all others; from B to G and D to E is 2/3 of size, or 12 inches; now divide B to G which makes H; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches. Now draw a line from I to J, this is the width of back line; from A to K is 1/6 of size, or 3 inches; from K to L is 1 inch. Draw a line from L to J and M to I. Now take half of M and I which makes 25; N is 1 inch below 25; from M to N is the arm-hole at the back. Then take half of I and H which makes 26. Take a straight stick from J against 26, and draw a line at the same time from 26 to V, and make a mark at 4, which is on the hip line, from 4 to 2 is 1 inch, and from V to 3 is also 1 inch. Now cross a line from 3 to 4, from 3 cross a line between 1 and 26 ; 21 is 1/2 inch; raise up at the side body from N for a seam allowance. From G to 5 and E to 6 is 3/4 of an inch; this 3/4 of an inch is here planned the opposite way than the tight-fitting garment; the 3/4 of an inch space is not used, as this garment is cut with one side body, and we only occupy one seam instead of two. To make this clearly understood, between the tight- and half- fitting, for a tight fitting this 3/4 of an inch is increased for a seam; for a half fitting this 3/4 of an inch is decreased, as we do not need the seam for this garment, as the garment has one gore less than the tight-fitting garment. Now begin the front; from 8 to 9 is 3/4 of an inch; from 6 to 14 is 1 inch; from E to 23 is 3/4 of an inch. Then cross lines from G to 9, from 9 to 14, and from 7 to 23. Begin the front shoulder from O to T; cross a line from O to 24, the front shoulder; this is always the same width as the back shoulder. Draw a line from 24 to F for the front arm-hole. Now measure the bust; from T to U is half of bust measurement; from U to 1 is 3 inches, for seams. Cross a square line from 1 to 22; from Y to Z is 3/4 of an inch; this is half of the regular allowance. From Y to 12 is 2 1/4 inches always. Now cross lines from 9 to 12 and from 1 to Z and 20: from 20 to 13 is 1/2 inch.

Now begin the dart: X is half of F and 1. Measure 1 to X and take the same from Z to 28. Now cross a line from X to 28, 15 and 11. Then divide X to 15 which makes 10. This is the line for the dart in front. The dart for half-fitting garments is a half decrease, as the tight-fitting garment, from 15 to 16 is 1/2 inch; from 15 to 17 is 1 1/2 inch. Now cross a straight line from 10 to 16 and 18, also from 10 to 17. Then cross a parallel line from 15 to 27 and draw a straight line down to 19; from 27 to 19 should be the same as from 16 to 18. All outlines are now ready. Begin to curve: from A, L, M, to N; from N to V and 2; this completes the back. Now begin the side body from 21 to 3 and 4. also from 21 to 5, 7 and 23, and bottom from 4 to 23. Then begin the front: from G, 9, 14 and 19 the arm-hole, from G to 24 and shoulder to O; from O to W, 1, Z and 13 to 18. as shown on diagram.

This completes the half-fitting jacket.