Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/40

31 LESSON 7. 18 GORE TIGHT FITTING GARMENT.

The foundation of this garment is the same as the 14 gore garment the dif ference in this draft is that this has one more seam running across the shoulder. Now begin to work at the back, from R to Z is 2 - ¼ inches, from S to X is 1 inch less or 1 - 1/4 inches, between X and 3 is 1/4 of an inch, from Z to 2, 5/8 of an inch lapped over to the back, from 3 to 4 is 1 - 1/2 inch, from 2 to 11 is 2 - 1/2 inches, this makes gore 2. From 4 to 5 is 3/8 of an inch and from 11 to 12 is 5/8 of an inch. From 5 to 6 is 1-1/2 inches and from 12 to 13 is 2-1/2 inches. This completes gore 3. From 13 to 14 is 5/8 of an inch, from 6 to 7 is a 1/2 inch, now begin to divide the back shoulder from L to 43 is 1-1/2 inch, and from 34 to 44 is also 1-1/2 inches now take half of 43 to 44 which makes M, now draw straight line from 43 to X, from M to 4, from 44 to 6, now make curved lines with the round stick from, 43 to 3, from M to 5 and from 44 to 7, this completes the french seams. at the back, now begin the side bodice, from 7 to 8 divide, makes 9, divide also from 1 to N makes 6. Now draw a line from 6 to 9 and 15, from G to 5 is 3/4 of an inch up to the arm hole, now take out on the waist line on both sides of 9, 55 and 56-1/2 inches and allow on the hip line from 15 to 16 and 17, 3/4 of an inch, now draw lines from 5 to 55 to 56 which is the waist line, now from 55 to 17 and from 56 to 16, from G to N is the same as the other drafts which is 3/4 of an inch, from 8 to 10 is 1 inch, now make 1/4 inch space from N to the front way of arm hole and draw a line to 10. From E to 19 is 1 inch, now draw line from 10 to 19. The foundation of the front is the same as other tight fitted fronts only the french seams are planned the same way as on the back of this diagram, at the beginning we first make the outlines for the darts, from X to 10 take half which is 23. 24 is half of 1 to 25, sow cross a line from 23 to 24 this shows the length of the darts raising up, now measure the spaces for the darts, from 24 to 30 is 2 inches, the same is from 20 to 21 and from 21 to 22, now measure the spaces on the waist line, from 25 to 26 is- 2-1/4 inches the same is from S6 to 27 and 28, now take out between 26 and 29 a 1/4 inch, from 27 to 30 is 1/2 inch, from) 28 to 31 is 1-1/2 inches, now draw lines from 20 to 26 down to 46, from 21 to 27 down to 48, from 22 to 28 down to 35. Now draw lines from 20 to 29 and 47, from 21 to 30 and 48, from 22 to 31 and 36. Measure from 28 to 35 and make the same from 31 to 36, now connect 10 to 19 with 6 inches and curve 19 to 36, now, curve from 35 to 48, 45, 47, 46, to 32, 32 is a 1/2 inch curved up from 50, from 46 to 47 is 1/8 of an inch. Now begin the french seams at the front, from 0 to 37 is the same as from L to 3443 [sic], from U to 38 is the same as from 34 to 44, now divide the space from 37 to 38 makes 39, now draw a line from 39 to 21, now measure, the space from M to 43 and 44 and make the same from 39 to 40 41. Now cross lines from 41 to 20 and 40 to 22, now cross a line from 37 lost to 20 as this place of the garment shall and be increased for the bust effect. Now draw a line from 36 to 58, the space