Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/38

29 LESSON 6.

FOURTEEN GORE GARMENT

The foundation of this diagram is the same as the others, now we begin the different actions, from, S to X is ]/12 of size or 1 - 1/3 inches from R to Z is 1 more inch or 2 - 1/2 inches, from X to 3 is one-half inch, from Z to 2 is 3/1 of an inch lapped back for the hip increase. From 3 to 10 is also 1 - 1/2 inch, from 2 to 39 is also 2 - 1/2 inches. . .Now mark from 10 to 9 again a 1/2 inch from 39 to 40, 3/4 of an inch. The difference in the spaces between the hip and waist is always 1 inch, if the gore measures on the hip line 2 - 1/2 inches it measures on the waist 1 - 1/2 inch. Now divide the shoulder for two seams, before we place the seams in place, we allow from M to 34, 3/4 of an inch on one seam as on diagram 5 and after we divide for the shoulder seam^. From L to 43 is 2 inches, from 34 to 44 is also 2 inches, now collect straight lines from 43 to X and from 44 to 10. After completing the straight lines draw curved lines from 3 to 43 and from 9 to 44, these curved lines shall meet on the breast line with the straight lines, now make the lines from the waist to hip as follows: From X to Z, from 2 to 3, from 10 to 39, and from 9 to 40, now take half of H and X makes G, also half of 9 and 15 makes 7, now draw a line from5, 6, 7 and 8 from 6 to 5 is one inch up, now decrease the waist part at 7 and increase the hip at S, now both sides of 7 take out 3/4 of an inch to 4 and 14, booth sides of 8 also 3/4 of an inch to 11 and 12, now cross lines from 6 to 4 and 14 also from 4 to 11 and from 14 to 12 this finishes the side seams, now we begin in the front, from 15 to 16 is always 1 inch for tight fitting garments, from 18 to 19 is 1 - 1/2 inch and from 18 to 21 is 2 - 1/4 inches, this part of the garment is also the same for all tight fitting garments. Now begin the darts in front, to have a proportional raise up for the darts, we divide N to 16 which makes 23, also from 1 to 22 makes 24, now cross a line from 23 to 24. Measure from 24 to 25, 2 - 1/2 inches and from 25 to 26, 3 inches, now make these spaces on the waist line with a 1/4 inch more than on the top line, from 22 to 27 is 2 - 3/4 inches, and from 27 to 28 is 3 1/4 inches now draw lines from 25 to 27, also from 26 to 28, 30. Now decrease the waist in front, both sides of 27 and 28, from 27 to 31 is 1/4 inch, and from 27 to 32 is a 1/2 inch, from 28 to 35 is a 1/2 inch and from 28 to 36 is 2 inches, from 29 to 31 is a 1/4 inch also 30 to 52 is a 1/4 inch, now draw lines from 25 to 31 down to 30 draw lines from 25 to 32 and 51, from 26 to 35, 52, from 26 to 36, 37. At this part of the garment be very careful, draw a parallel line from 35 to 36 and square a line down to 38, from 37 to 38 shall be 6 inches, also from 16 to 42, now connect 42 to 38 with a curved line. Now begin to make the french seams in front, in order to begin measure the space at back from 44 to 43 and make the same from O to 45, now measure from 44 to 34 and make the same from to 45, now measure from 44 to 34 and make the same from U to 46, now allow from 45 to 20 3/8 of an inch and from 46 to 17 also 3/8 of an inch. Now this space from 17 to 20 will match the width of 43 and 44, now draw lines from 20 to 25, 17 to 26, draw lines from 45 to 35 and from 46 to 53. Now curve the lines from 45 to 25 as shown on diagram to 31 and 50 with a straight line, again from 20 to 25, 32 and 52. From 46 to 54 connecting with 26, 36, 37 and 38, now curve the bottom from 52 to 54, 50 and 49, 49 is a 1/2 inch up from 48.

This completes the 14 gore fitting.