Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/34

25 LESSON 4.

TIGHT FITTING JACKET TWO DARTS IN FRONT

This lesson begins the same way as lesson 3, this diagram is showing two darts in front also the button stand and collar. To begin the darts we take half of N to 14 which makes 23. Now take half of 1 and 21 makes 24, this line shows us the height of raising up the darts for the bust. Now we begin to make the space between the darts, from 24 to 25 is 2 1/2 inches, from 25 to 26 is 3 inches, from 21 to 27 is 2 3/4 inches, from 27 to 28 is 3 3/4 inches.

Now draw lines from 25 to meet 27 and 29, also to meet 28 and 30. Now we make the side lines for the dart, from 27 to 31 is 1/4 inch, from 27 to 32 is 1/3 inch, from 28 to 35 is 1/2 inch, from 28 to 36 is 2 inches. Now cross parallel lines from 31 and 35 to 37, now make all side lines for the darts from 25 to 31, 48 also 25 to 32, 47 is 1/4 from 29. Now draw lines from 26 to 35 and to 46, 46 is 1/4 from 30, again from 26 to 36 to meet 37. Now square line from 35 and 37 down to 38, this completes the two darts. The bottom stand for tight fitting is one inch, the allowance shall always be made on the breast and hip lines. From 1 to 20 is 1 inch and from 22 to 50 is also 1 inch for button stand, from 50 to 51 is a half inch allowed from the waist line lost. Now begin to draft the collar and lapel, in order to begin the collar we shall first decide the opening of the coat, the opening shall always be marked on the outside of the button stand, for short lapels we begin the lapel on the breast line. Now before we begin to draft the collar we make one inch space for collar stand from O to 42 this is from the front neck joint to the stand line for the collar. Now draw a line from 20 to 42 and 43, from 42 to 43 is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, 43 to 44 is one inch, connect 44 to and curve the neck to W down way to 39 and 40, from W to 39 is 3 inches, this spare can be changed to any width wanted. From 39 to 40 is two inches lapel notch, from 39 to 41 is the collar notch, this space should always be 1/4" less than the lapel, from 43 to 45 is 2 - 1/2", to draw a line to 41 or an inch lower than the notch of the collar to shape out the collar between 45 and 41 and finish up at 39. Now curve the front 20 to he waist front and from the waist begin to shape out with a half inch from 50 to 51, curve the bottom of front, now curve 14 to 16 with 6 ishes, from 3; to 38 and 36 to 46 shall also be 6 inches, now curve from 16 to 38, curve 40, 47 and 48 to 49. 49 is a half inch shape up from 50.

When cutting the front, a notch shall be made at the beginning of the lapel. This completes the Jacket with the two darts.