Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/310

301 inches front, 43 inches side, and 45 inches at the back. The long sweep length is also 41 inches in front, 43 inches side, and 46 inches at the back. For a long trail skirt there is no limit to the lengths. For a medium allow for the trail 12 inches to the medium back length and lose with a curve to the front.

50. If the hips are too large the amount which is over-limit can be taken off the back at hip, and if hips are too small, according to the proportionate draft, the amount which is to be increased should also be increased toward the back at all seams from the side seam to the back, and no decreasing should be done at the front part for the hip measurements.

51. How to measure the waist and hip when a test for hip is wanted: Take off seams of both edges where seams take place and measure the inside space for waist or the hip part, and the waist or hip should measure 1/2 inch more than the measurements call for. When measuring the waist for the skirt, the amount should be just what is wanted, and the hip should measure a little more than wanted, in order that the hips will not be snug for the skirt.

53. General notice to those who wish to create a new style of garment or any sort of section. Before starting your creation have a record of certain actions as follows: Your length of garment, length of sleeve, whether front is to be single- or double-breasted, lapel collar, notch collar, lay-over collar, stand-up collar, or no collar, cuffs or no cuffs, and if you wish to have a cuff mark your style for it, the style of pocket, style of flaps on pocket, how many pockets, how many buttons or buttonholes should garment have, the size and style of button and buttonholes. After completing all particulars decide about your main action, which is the length of the front and back of this garment, which means the shape or cut in front or back part of garment—tight-fitting, half-fitting or loose-fitting. After you have completed your record for style you can start to draft your model size pattern. Be sure to have your sample suitable size for your section of garment, as regards women, misses', juniors' or children's sizes. As a rule, each one of these sections are built with different model sizes, except the women's garments.

53. When a large waist measurement is needed to be connected to the draft in this case always look up the proportionate measurements, following the breast sizes of the garments, and see the difference between the proportionate waist, and large waist measurements for instance, if you have the measurements for size of a 38 size. For this purpose look up the proportionate waist measurements for size 38, which is about 26 inches. Now see the difference between 26 and use large waist measurement, which is 28 inches The difference between the two waist measurements is 2 inches. For this case, take half of this, which is 1 inch, and add this inch to the front part where the seam is allowed to the dart to the waist line. Be careful to allow this amount to the front before you take off the dart from the front, and follow the dart according to the amount which has been allowed to the front. If there is a whole lot allowed, meaning for the waist, increase about 3 to 4 inches more as the proportionate waist measurements. This dart should be followed according to half of the space which is allowed in front, in order not to have the dart too much bias.

54. If waist is too large, take off the amount which is over-built at the front part, where the dart takes place, and a small amount can also be taken off at all parts towards the back, especially at the side body. In case the waist is too small increase this amount. strictly to the front only; as in this case, where the waist is too large, the figure is' built stout.