Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/309

Rh 41. Special measurements for front waist length: If the measurement does not reach over the regular waist line use the regular waist line in this case for all garments.

42. For testing and measuring waists: When a test or measuring over for waist is needed, take off seams of every gore, which amounts to 3/8 inch for all sorts of garments except skirts. For skirts we allow one-half for seams and measure the inside part of the garment. For the hip use the same method. This rule should be followed for all kinds of tight-fitting garments. When the measurement or test is wanted for a half-fitting garment, use the same method, but allow 3 inches more than the measurements call for.

43. When a narrow bottom is wanted on skirts, increase the amount on the waist line. After the waist measurement of 3 inches is allowed add 1 inch more, which makes 4 inches, or more if you desire. If full bottom is wanted allow 2 inches instead of 3 inches. To understand these outlines we should increase the waist line for a decreased bottom as needed, and if increased bottom is wanted we should decrease the waist line. This will bring the results of changing widths of bottom of skirts.

44. Yokes should lie cut across on blouses or jackets above the breast line about 1 1/2 inches. It is proper to have the yoke cut bias, or down towards the front. Seams should be allowed on both upper and lower parts in cutting across for a yoke. A special allowance should be made for seams. If a lap seam is wanted allow additional amount.

45. The empire style should be cut across below the breast line, or between breast and waist line, and seams should be allowed for a yoke, with additional amount allowed for a lap seam.

46. When splitting any part of a pattern where there is no seam allowed do not forget to allow for additional seams.

47. When making changes for collars, and also sailor collars, be careful to follow the neck part of the garment for which these collars are cut.

48. Collars should be cut carefully and followed by the opening of the garment. If openings are changed on coats the collar should follow the same way, as the stand of the collar is connected with the opening line of the neck on all garments, which are cut with collars.

49. All kinds of lengths for all kinds of skirts. Many different lengths for skirts are called as follows:

These lengths of skirt are to be followed with different measurements, which in most cases change towards the back length of the skirt, and somewhat changed on the front inside length, and should be known that the lengths are to be followed for the medium height, which is 5 feet, 6 inches. Body lengths for different kinds as above are as follows: Regular length of skirt is 41 inches in front, 42 1/2 inches side, 44 inches back for round length skirt, which is 3 inches, and spare between front and back length. The short round length is 40 inches front, 41 1/2 inches side and 43 inches back length. The instep length is 39 inches front, 40 inches side, and 41 1/2 inches back length. The ankle length, which may also be called the rainy day skirt, is 38 inches front, 39 inches side, and 40 inches at back length. These are all the short length skirts from the regular size length up. We should followlong skirts from the regular length down. The depth length is about the same as the regular lengths in front, which is 41 inches, side length 41 1/2 inches and back length 44 inches. The medium sweep length is also 41