Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/308

299 28. Capes should be cut by the size and bust measurement. No special measurements are required. The regular outlines should be used in all cases for all styles of capes.

29. For seams in all kinds of garments allow 3 inches only. If French seams or any other special cuts are made, allow for seams accordingly, and allow the same amount for all sizes.

30. When a fashion-plate shows a closed back and a closed front, then the garment is buttoned on the side oi on the shoulders.

31. The grading changes on all different sizes or garments. In beginning to grade certain garments for women, misses, juniors and children, the different changes are as follows : The width for all sizes are to be followed the same way as regards the height measurements for all different sizes. A great change takes place in the back depth and natural waist length. The depth and waist length for women's sizes increase alike—that is, the waist length increases a certain amount. The depth increases the same amount. For misses size the rule is about the same. For juniors' and children's sizes the waist length increases 1/2 inch in length. The depth increases 1/4 inch, and the side body also 1/4 inch. On blouses for juniors' and children's sizes the space, which is divided for the depth and underam length, is to be increased at both ends for top and bottom, which is the Upper neck and shoulder for the waist line. For such garments, which are continued from the waist down to the hip. change the waist line according to the amount of longest waist for the different sizes; or, if wanted, this rule can be changed. The waist line can remain straight for all sizes, and the change of underarm can be made at the breast line where the armhole begins. For children's garments use the same method. Great care must be taken when grading odd sizes for juniors and children.

32. When grading children's and juniors' garments be very careful to look at the proportional measurements, as the juniors' and children's sizes are greatly changed regarding their proportions.

33. In grading garments which have many gores be careful to find out how to divide the amount of increase or decrease; for instance, 14 and 18-gore garments, which are strictly tight-fitting, are graded the same way as the tight-fitting French seam garment.

34. Box coats, etons, blouses and butterfly sleeves are graded by the same method. 35. Skirts are all graded alike. The front part is never graded for skirts; otherwise increase the amount of waist and hip of all gores alike. Before completing the grading be very careful to see if you have increased or decreased sufficiently or not so as the garment is not overbuilt.

36. When grading collars always grade them for length only, not the width. A half-collar should be graded half the amount, and a full or open collar should be graded the full amount of the size which is given on the table of proportions.

37. The sailor collar with the shield should lie graded on one style or method.

38. When a collar is cut in many pieces, grade each part separately.

39. Cuffs are graded according to the sleeve, and the same amount as the sleeve is graded in the front. The height of cuffs is not graded.

40. When taking special measurements for a large size take all measurements snug. For slim figures take all measurements full. For medium body take measurements medium.