Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/307

Rh 15. Length of garments on a fashion-plate. If you wish to find the length of garment remember the natural waist length, which is 15 1/2 inches, then take a narrow strip of paper and place it to the waist length on the back of the fashion-plate and mark the paper from the socket bone to the waist line, then see how many times this space measures below the waist line. If only once more, the length of the garment should be 31 inches. If only half as much, the length should be 23 1/4 inches.

16. Lengths for jackets and coats for women's size should not be changed any for different sizes. For misses' size change 1/2 inch when grading larger or smaller size. For junior size change 1 inch in length. For children's size change 2 inches in length when grading for larger or smaller sizes.

17. Length for dresses on women's sizes are not to be changed. For misses' size change 1 inch in length. For junior sizes 1 1/2 inches in length, and children's size 2 inches in length, when grading larger and smaller sizes.

18. When taking measurements for skirts where the front length of the skirt is about the same as the back length, this signifies that the figure is a straight waist — meaning erect or somewhat stout. When the front lengths for skirts are greatly changed, or much longer than the back length, this can be followed as the stout skirt.

19. How to lengthen a coat: When a longer coat is wanted for a half or tight-fitting garment, make the draft as usual to the hip line and make all curves. After all curves are ready begin to increase the length from the hip line down to any length needed, or follow the same method as the tight-fitting princess lining.

20. Sleeve lengths for misses' and juniors' sizes should be followed according to the size as to proportions, and women's size for the inside sleeve length should be 18 inches for all sizes.

21. Cuff widths should be followed according to the style of garment. The regular width of cuff is 12 inches. The narrow width is 9 inches. The very full width for evening garments is 18 inches for all women's sizes. For misses' size this rule should be changed to 1 inch less. For juniors' sizes 2 inches less; for children's sizes 3 inches less than for women' garments.

22. No cuff's should be cut 1 inch larger than the width of sleeve in front. The height of cuff should be followed according to the style of garment. The regular height of cuff is 3 inches.

23. Collars of all kinds should be cut according to the size of the neck for all garments. The width of collar should be followed according to the style. When cutting a collar with a lapel, the collar should be 1/4 inch narrower than the lapel.

24. Lapels are to be followed according to the style of garment. The regular width of lapels for single-breasted jackets is 1 l/2 inches, or 2 inches for the double-breasted, and for single-breasted coats lapels should be 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches.

25. Flaps and welts should be followed according to the style of garments. The correct width of pocket flaps is 3 inches, and welts 1 1/4 inches. These parts are a matter of taste.

26. Butterfly sleeves are to be connected to three-fourths, one-half or loose-fifting garments only. It will not answer for tight-fitting garments.

27. When the bust or hip in special measurements proves too small, increase same with 1 size in order that the garments will not be too snug around the bust or hip.