Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/306

297 11. How to svstemize the darts for all garments: Before commencing to draft look over the style, in order to find what sort of fitting the garment is supposed to have. In case it is a tight-fitting garment always allow 1 1/2 inches in front on straight waist line. If a half-fitting garment is wanted always allow 3/4 inch in front on the straight waist-line for the dart. If there is no dart no allowance should be made. Any allowance would only increase the front. For top garments allow the same amount for the dart. A 14 and 18-gore fitting is followed according to the tight-fitting garments, A 14-gore garment should carry 2 darts in front, and the space between darts should be 2 1/2 or 3 inches. At the first dart we should take out 1/4 to 1/2 inch. At the second dart, which is the inside part, we should take out 1/3 to 2 inches. The 18-gore garment should carry 3 darts in front. The space between these darts should be spaced equally 2 inches from the outside pare of front. The darts for the 18-gore should be curved toward the side body. At the first dart we take out 1/4 inch, at the second dart 1/2 inch, at the third dart, which is the inside dart towards the side body, we should take out 1 1/3 inches. Further instructions for this garment are to be found in the following pages, where such garments are shown completely on the diagram.

12. How to systemize all sleeve lengths: The regular sleeve length is known as 18 inches for side length. I shall explain how the sleeve length can be followed according to the size and according to the height, to make it a proportional length for sleeve. According to the size, take one-half of breast, which is IS inches, and, according to the height, we should take one-fourth of height, which is 16 1/2 inches for 5 feet 6 inches height, and 1 1/3 inches more makes it 18 inches sleeve length. This proportional sleeve length can be followed the same way as length for all sizes. For smaller sizes we always make the sleeve short. For larger sizes we can follow the proportionate measurements, which are to be found in these pages. A three-fourths length should measure 13 1/2 inches; a one-half length sleeve should measure 9 inches, and a one-fourth length sleeve should measure 4 1/2 inches.

13. The reversible garment is cut full and always followed by box coats or blouse garments. The collar for such garments are cut in one, on front and back. No side seams needed. When placing the side seams on top of each other, take off 3/4 inch. For long coats or capes, open cloth in order to be able to cut this garment the width of cloth. For these garments we must have a seam in the back, as the width of cloth is not sufficient. The sleeve for these garments should be cut in one piece, including the cuff. It is also possible to cut a reversible long coat without a seam in back, if cut across for the Empire Style.

14. Button stands should be allowed according to the style of garment wanted. All single-breasted tight-fitting jackets should carry 1 inch button stand. It does not make any difference in how many gores the jacket is cut. Single-breasted one-half fitting jackets should have 1 1/2 inches button stand. The Hy front jacket should have 2 inches button stand. Double-breasted jackets should have 3 inches button stand. Eton or blouse jackets can carry any style of button stand. Top garments or other coats or capes should have more button stand to lap over the jacket. The button stand for single-breasted top garments should be 2 1/2 inches, with or without the fly front. Double-breasted top coats and automobile coats should have 4 inches button stand. Double-breasted rain coats should carry 3 inches button stand For coats that button up to the neck follow the rules of single or double-breasted fronts as above mentioned. Button stands are not to be changed for any size. The same stands should be used for all sizes.