Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/305

Rh 6. Special attention is called to those who cut stout garments. The armhole should be extra large in size, and 1/2 inch depth should be made from the breast line. The neck should be deeply curved, and stand collar should be cut with a very short stand. Jackets for this should only be cut with a single-breasted front and 1 inch button stand, as the double-breasted makes the stout form very clumsy looking. The skirt for a stout form should be cut in very few gores.

7. The width of sleeves may be used according to the style wanted. The top fullness for sleeve must be carefully followed for style wanted. The top of sleeve can be changed to any width wanted. In lengthening or shortening the sleeve be careful to have the elbow one-half of the inside sleeve length.

8. The bottom width for all kinds of coats must be systemized to suit all lengths. When cutting a short coat, about 30 inches long, the bottom for the coat should measure twice as much as the length; and the double measure of the bottom should measure 60 inches. If a narrow bottom is needed, make it somewhat less. The regular bottom for skirts should be 3 yards all around. If a skirt with pleats is wanted in this case decrease the bottom of the skirt. 'hen increasing or decreasing this skirt be careful to make the changes on both sides of every gore.

9. The first or proportional length for jackets is 18 inches. To continue all other lengths always add 6 inches. To increase any other proportional length add 6 inches and 18 inches, making it 24 inches in length; then add 6 inches to 24 inches, making 30 inches in length, and add 6 inches to 30 inches, making 36 inches length; add 6 inches to 36 inches, making 42 inches in length; add 6 inches to 42 inches, making 48 inches in length; add 6 inches to 48 inches, making 54 inches length; add 6 inches to 54 inches, making 60 inches. In order to get any size of length wanted, as three-fouthrs length, one-half length or one-fourth length, we first look for the full length, which is 60 inches, and take one-half of this, which is 30 inches. This amount is known as the medium length. To get one-fourth length we should first get the shortest length, which is 18 inches, and count from 18 to 30, which is 12 inches. Now take one-half of 12, which is 6, and add 6 to 18, which makes 24 inches for a short length for jacket. To get the three-fourths length look for the one-half length, which is 30 inches, and take one-half between 30 and the full length, which is 60 inches, one-half between 30 and 60 makes 15, and add 15 to the medium length, which is 30. making 45 inches for three-fourths length coat. It is understood that the full length should measure 60 inches. In case 60 inches for the full length is too long for some garments, take 6 inches less in order to make this length somewhat shorter, which will make a seven-eighths length.

10. How to find the width of back for different ways of taking measurements. The width of back can be found in many ways, as follows: As to size of breast measurement, as to armhole build, and as to direct measurements. The most practical way is to follow the measurements according to the size of breast, as the breast measurement is followed according to the build of the form. The direct measurement for the width of the back is absolutely useless, as the width of back cannot be taken according to any garment worn by some people, as all the garments are cut with a different width of back, therefore we cannot get the width of back measurements by any other means. Use the width of back measurement for regular size, according to the size of breast, and for special size according to the system of special measurements.