Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/304

295 PHILOSOPHY OF CORRECTIONS ON DESIGNING AND GARMENT CUTTING. 1. Drafting is the first action in order to get the principal outlines for the builds. In this action we find suitable needs in order to build bases for our models. Drafting for the model size is built according to full particulars of a proportional sample size wanted, which is situated according to the height. The connecting garment to this size—meaning skirts to be drafted according to the waist size X)i either branch. Drafting by special measurements are followed according to their measurements without having anything to do with any size number, or height division—meaning strict special measurement drafting. A careful study is always needed in using special measurements, in order to make corrections that are needed. As a rule, practical people will always find corrections to their special measurements.

2. Before commencing to draft a proportional garment be careful to study the height of the person, and all measurements that are connected with the height; as depth, side length and natural waist length. When cutting for a short built person the measurements for depth, side length, natural waist length, and also sleeve, should measure short. When cutting for a medium height, all length measurements should be medium in length. When cutting for slim persons, all length measurements should be long, according to the regular measurements.

3. When the measurement of the chest is larger than the bust we use the chest measurement for the bust and the bust measurement for chest.

4. The pocket should always be placed for short jackets 3 inches below the natural waist line in front. For long coats the pocket should be placed 3 inches below the waist for all kinds of lengths, as the natural waist length is always followed out by the height of the figure. Regarding the style of pockets there is no rule. The size of large or low pockets for jackets is 1/2 inch, more than one- fourth of the size. For a 36 size this amounts to 5 inches. The breast pocket is 1/2 inch less than one-fourth of the size. For 36 size this amounts to 4 inches, such as top garments, automobile or rain coats. These pockets are to be made larger. The size of large pockets should measure 6 inches, and the size of the small pocket or top breast pocket should measure 5 inches. Patch pockets should always be cut larger than others. The depth of patch pockets should be carefully considered, and to have them at least 2 inches more in length than they are in width. The slanting pockets are to be made according to the style wanted.

5. Pleats and vents for coats should not be cut or taken oft at the natural waist line, as it makes the garment look too short-waisted. Such pleats should begin at least 2 inches below the natural waist length, unless the garment is to be cut short-waisted. Where pleats are to be separated they should be allowed on the pattern and notched on the bottom of the coat in order to know how much is to be allowed for the pleat. Short pleats should be equally allowed all the way down. Skirt pleats should begin at least 5 inches below the waist, so as not to increase the waist belt with the fullness of pleats.