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283 LESSON 156.

HOW TO GRADE A CHILD'S BLOUSE.—SIZE 6 TO 8.

To begin to grade cut out the model pattern size 6 and see that the proportion of the next size to be graded at the space is size 6. From size 6 to size 8—breast, waist, hips, back depth and natural waist length, is the measurement. The first measurement we use is the depth and waist length. In order to find out how much to increase in height look up the space between the two different waist lengths, then place the cut-out back pattern on a sheet of paper and draw a line at the back from 10 to 11, which is shown on the broken line, and move the pattern in 1/8 inch from 10 to A and 11 to D. On the top allow from A to 10 and from L to 9; M to H is 1/4 inch, as this is the difference between the two sizes. From M to N is also 1/4 inch; from 5 to B allow 1/4 inch, which lengthens the waist length from 10 to 13. This completes the back grading.

Now begin the front grading. The front should begin from the front edge. Draw a line from 1 to 2 and place the front pattern to the line and mark the neck curve up to 7, then shift the pattern back from 1 to X, 2 to Z and 7 to O to allow the 1/2 inch; from O to S and from U to 8 is 1/4 inch. Mark around armhole. From 6 to C and from 3 to 9 is 1/8 inch. Now mark the bottom curve. From 9 to E is 3/4 inch; from X to 15 is 3/4 inch. Now curve the bottom from E to 15, which completes the blouse grading. See if you have allowed the difference of the two sizes between size 6 and 8, which is 26 and 28 breast.