Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/28

19 LESSON 1.

I shall now commence to explain the drafting of a womens model size 30. This begins the foundation lines for the body from neck down to the hip. We shall use the following standard measurements for drafting a regular 36 size.

Now begin to draft the lines from A. to D. and from A. to W. From A. to B is 7 inch back depth. from A to C is 15-1/2 in. natural waist length. From C to D is 6 inches hip length. The hip line is always 6 inches below the waist line. Now cross all lines from A. B. C. D.

Now measure from B. to G. and from D to E. 2/3 yards of size or 12 inches.

Now draw a line from E. to G. up to U. now take half of B. and G. to make H. from H. to I is 1 1/4 inch, now draw a line from I. up to J. from A. to K. is 1/6 of a size. or 3 inches. From K. to L. is 1 inch now connect a line from L. to J. out .M. In order to get the correct width of shoulder for any size use a square from L. to J. and this will give a correct width of shoulder At M. from G. to F. is 1/6 of size. Or 3 inches draw a line up from F. to Q. from Q. to P. is 1/6 of size, and from P. to O. is also 1/6 of size or 3 inches. is the neck and shoulder point of front. From D. to E. is 1/12 of size or or 1/12 inch, from C. to S. is 2 inches. Now draw a line from E to S and from S to A. this line builds the shape of the body. Now draw a line from the neck point O to T at the neck depth, this line builds the front shoulder.

The lines of this diagram shall be named in-order to keep track of them as these are the foundation lines for all drafts. The line at A. is called, Top line. The line at B. is called Breast line. The line at C is called Waist line. The line at D. is called Hip line.