Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/278

269 LESSON 146.

HOW TO ALLOW PLEATS ON A BLOUSE.

When pleats are wanted on any two-piece garment, like a blouse, cut out the front and back pattern, as shown, and begin the back first. Place the back pattern on a separate sheet of paper and allow for pleats just as much as is wanted from A to 1 and from D to 2. The amount which is allowed should raise up to the back of neck from 1 L. The amount for pleats can be allowed exactly. If three pleats of 1/2 inch are needed in back, allow from A to 1 and from D to 2, 3 inches. Allow double amount for pleats. The pleats should always cross at the shoulder seam. The front part is worked in the same manner. To begin mark out the front all around from O, U, 6, 9, X and Z to O. From Z to 3 and from X to 4 allow 3 inches, or the same amount as allowed on the back part, and raise the allowance in front up to the neck point opposite O; then curve the bottom from Y to X as shown on the diagram. When pleats are placed in proper place on the front or back cut out the curves of the neck as shown on the original pattern. This completes this diagram.

LESSON 147.

PLEATS ON BLOUSE WITH A YOKE.

If a yoke is connected with a garment where pleats are needed, as shown on the diagram from R to 17. draw a line across from R to 18 and connect with a curve from 18 to 17. The back is made the same way. The yoke is cut across from T to 15. The fulness is allowed from T to 16 and D to 2. The seams should be allowed for both top and bottom when a yoke is attached or cut for such garment. The round curve at the back from 15 to 16, and on the front from 17 to 18, is allowed or prepared so as the lower part can be trimmed off. The pleats are gathered up for the lower parts of this garment.