Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/276

267 LESSON 145.

THE PRINCESS DRESS.

To begin the princess dress we first draft the outlines of a tight French seam fitting and complete the draft to be cut out. Mien all gores are marked out draw a straight line down at the back from A and B to C: then cross a line down from D down to E. When drafting these lines for making the length of the princess we should commence the increase for the length from the hip line; at the same' time we have to look out that the bottom of this draft is neither too narrow nor too full. 'e also have to decide the length of this draft from the waist line to the ground on the side; from the waist to the ground in front and from the waist line down to the ground in back. The proportionate lengths from the waist to the ground should be 44 inches in back; on the side 42 1/2 inches, and in front 41 inches. Now cross all lines down from the hip, as shown on the diagram; from A to C is 44 inches; from Y to E should be 1/2 inch less, or 43 1/2 inches. Make the same length from X to G at the first side body, and from Z to 7 make 1/2 inch less, which is 43 inches. Make the same 43 inches from T to J, and from 2 to M measure the side length, which is 42 1/2 inches, and apply the same 42 1/2 inches at the front hip from 3 to O. Now we apply the length for the front from R to S, which is 41 inches. At the inside part of this front from T to U measure 1/2 inch more, which is 41 1/2 inches: also from V to O is 41 1/2 inches. Be very careful to increase the lines down by lengthening from the finishing at curve of the hip. The length in front from R to S should be made straight; also the front from P to Q should be as straight as possible. When all curves are complete measure over the bottom for each gore separately, and see to it that the bottom of this garment does not measure more than the double amount of the length in back from top to bottom. The length of the dress should be 59 1/2 inches. This garment has all seams allowed. If a half-fitting princess lining is wanted, use the half-fitting outlines and follow the same instructions.

For a closed back and front or front and back panels see Lesson 39.