Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/272

263 LESSON 143.

THE SHIRT WAIST WITH A SIDE BODY.

This garment is drafted the same as the regular shirt waist. This garment only changes with the side body. After having all outlines complete, take from G to 1 and from E to 2, 3/4 inch; and cross a line from 1 to 2. This space between G1 and E2 is not used. Now divide from X to 3, making 4; from 4 to 5 is 1 1/2 inches, and 6 is half between 4 and 5. Cross a line down from 6 to 9; from 6 to 16 is 1 1/4 inches; cross a line up from 6 to 16 and 17, and divide the hip space between C and D and 41 to E, which makes 7 and 8: also cross a line from 7 and 8 and at both sides of 9, which makes 10 and 11, and allow 1/2 inch; then cross lines from 10 to 4 and from 11 to 5. The side seam for this shirt waist is the same as the first shirt waist. This draft also shows a dart in front in case it is wanted. For this dart we first divide the chest from F to W and take one-half, which makes 31. and measure the space between W and 20 and place from 31 to 21 on the waist line. Before making this space on the waist line divide 14 and 1.5 to make 31; 15 is the square line down when seams are all allowed, and 14 is the extension line from the neck against the bust down from Y and W to 14 and 12. Now make the line half way between 14 and 15. From 31 to 21 is the space of W and 20. Now cross a line from 20 against 21 down to 30; from 15 to 61 is 2 inches for long waist line; 19 is the long waist line and centre line for the dart; from 19 to 22 is 1 inch; from 19 to 23 is 2 inches. Divide from 19 to 20, which makes 25, and connect lines from 25 to 23; again from 25, 23 and 27, and curve this dart from 29, 35, 22, 36 and again from 25, 23, 27 and 28. The space between 27 and 28 should be the same as from 22 to 26. Connect with a curve from 22 to 26 out to 13 and 18 to 12, and curve the sides, as shown on diagram, from 4 to 10 and 5 to 11. The hips are, as usual, from 2 to 8 and from 51 to 24.