Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/270

261 LESSON 142.

THE SHIRT WAIST.

To begin the shirt waist we use the measurements as always. The measurements for this waist are as follows:

To begin we draw a line from A to D and from A to S; from A to B is 7 inches depth; from A to C is 15 1/2 inches natural waist line; from C to D is 6 inches below the waist length; from B to G and from D to E is two-thirds of size, or 12 inches; H is one-half of B and G; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches. Draw a line from I to J, which gives the width of back line; from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 3 inches; from K to L is 1 inch up for the neck curve. Now cross a line from L against J to AI, and square a line down from M to meet I. This connection between L and M to I should be made with the square, in order to meet all points at the same time from L, J and M to I. By doing this we do not have to measure a certain width for the shoulder, as these lines produce the width of shoulder for any size wanted. Make the body line from D to Z, which is one-twelfth of the size, or 1 1/2 inches; from C to X is 1/2 inch more, or 3 inches; cross a line from Z to X and from X to A to the neck point. Now begin the front; from G to F is one-sixth of the size, or 3 inches. This part of the garment is the same for all sizes above 36, and is 3 inches. For smaller sizes than 36 this part should be followed with one-sixth of the size. Cross a line up from F to Q; from Q to P is always one-sixth of the size; from P to O is also onesixth of the size; from P to R is one-sixth of the size, and from R and S allow one seam; from S to Y is 3/4 inch up. Curve the neck in front from O to Y and cross a line for the front shoulder from O to T. This line produces the front shoulder. Before measuring the front shoulder be sure to measure over back shoulder from L to M, and place the same amount from O to U for the front shoulder. Connect U to F and measure one-half of the bust from T to V which is 39 inches, and from V to W is 3 inches for seams; also connect a line from Y against W down to 12, which is the bottom part of this front. Mien completing the same lines from V to W cross a square line down to 11, in order to have the increase for fulness from 11 to 12, divide the space between I and G, making X. Cross a square line down from N and 4; for both sides of N take out 3/4 inch; at 1 and 2 and