Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/267

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LESSON 141

HOW TO CUT THE SLEEVE OF SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS.

Before commencing the draft for the special sleeve, we need to look up the depth and width of the armhole, which is taken off from the draft for this sleeve. The special sleeve carries three (3) measurements which are as follows:

Begin to draft. From A to B is 36 on thirds, or 6 inches; now cross a line A to F; then measure from A to F, 38 on halves for the width of sleeves. Measure from B to D for the inside length of sleeve. Divide the elbow line between B and D which makes E, and cross all lines and measure from D to I, the width of measurement 38 on halves, the same as you have measured from A to F, and cross a line up from I to F. Divide A and B, which makes C; from G to V is one-twelfth of depth length, which is 36 on twelfths, or 1 1/2 inches for this size. Cross a line from V to C and divide, which makes T. Cross a straight line down from T to U and divide, which makes the Star. From T to X is always 1 inch for the under sleeve. Now divide D to I, making J; from J to K is 2 inches; from H to N is 1 inch space. Now cross a line from K against I; from I to O is 1 inch; from O to P is also 1 inch; from G to S is 1/2 inch. Now cross the inside line for the under sleeve from O to N and N to G, and for the top sleeve cross a line from P to H and from H up to S; from K connect a line to E, which is the top sleeve. From K to L is 1 1/2 inches, and from E to M is 2 1/2 inches. Now draw a line up from L to M and from M to X; from X to W is 3/4 inch, and one seam towards the armhole. Lengthen the under sleeve from O to Q and from L to R, with the same amount as the straight line from the bottom, which is built out at I to Q and amounts to about 3/8 inch. From O to Q parallel to R, which is the under sleeve. Now make a top curve with a circle by the star between T and U. The starting of this curve should be made from V to C. The under sleeve curve should begin at W and T down to G. Curve the breaks at the elbow at E, M and N and H. This completes the special measurement sleeve. This sleeve is cut without any fulness; should you want a sleeve with fulness, the only change we have to make is to build the width of the sleeve on the two-thirds between A and F and D to I instead of using half divisions for the sleeve without any fulness.