Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/266

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A STUDY OF SPECIAL GARMENT CUTTING.

These two figures show the differences between proportional and disproportional. No. 1 shows the straight development of the proportionate form. The back of this form is built as straight as possible and the bust is situated the proper way with straight lines. The waist effect is also built in proper place straight down to the hip line. The sitting form of Figure No. 1 is as straight as possible, and is noticeable between the line crossing lengthwise and the parallel space, also the waist space of the sitting depth of the hip across the front. Figure No. 2 shows a disproportionate build with round back, or round from the socket bone down to the hip, and broken in front, and makes the front effect short from the neck down to the waist, and which gives the back depth from the socket bone down to the breast line very long, and the front neck down to the breast very short. These two figures point out the use of special measurements and give the difference between the proportional and disproportional method. I have, therefore, prepared a system of special garment cutting which will serve the purpose for cutting garments for all kinds of disproportional and broken figures. For further instructions see the special measurements for drafting.