Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/264

255 from 20 to 9 take half, which makes 21; 19 is half of 11 and 8. Draw a line from 19 down to 21 and 22; on both sides of 21 to 24 and 25 take out 3/4 inch; on both sides of 22 allow 1/2 inch to 26 and 27, and cross lines from 19 to 24 and 25. Cross lines from 24 to 27 and 25 to 26; from 9 to 53 is 1 inch; from 40 to 42 is 1 inch. Now measure the front waist length from 35 to 41. When measuring the front waist length take off one-eighth of chest, which belongs to the back neck, or begin to measure from 36 to 35 and down to 41, which is 23 front waist length. Now make the dart in front and divide the chest and take out the same amount as usual. For the French seams follow the same as always and do not allow for seams. From 10 to 57 is 3/4 inch, and from 10 to 58 is 1 inch. The allowance in front for a dart on a tight-fitting is 1 inch. For a half-fitting garment, 1/2 inch. The front waist length is always followed by special measurement. When drafting without seams be very careful to see that the back depth and natural waist length should be taken very snug in length. This completes the special measure draft without seams allowed.

A Sleeve Without Seams Allowed.—When a sleeve without seams is wanted, use the same outlines; but. in order not to have the sleeve too full according to the size or measurements wanted, use the depth and width of sleeve one size smaller, as the measurements and this will give the sleeve without seams. The inside length for the sleeve should be followed by the measurements as usual.