Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/263

 LESSON 140.

No 4.—HOW TO CUT BY SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS WITHOUT SEAMS ALLOWED.

When beginning to draft draw lines, as usual, and use the same measurements. The measurements for this garment are as follows:

To begin to draft draw lines from 1 to 4; from I to 2 is 7 inches back depth; from 1 to 3 is 15 inches natural waist length; from 3 to 4 is 6 inches hip length; or from 1 to 4 is 21 inches full length. Now cross all lines from 1, 2, 3 and 4; from 4 to 5 is 1 1/2 inches; from 3 to 6 is 2 inches. Draw lines from 5, 6 and 7 up to 1. Measure the arm blade from 7 to 8 which is 23 on scale, or 11 1/2 inches. Draw a line up from 8 and down to 9 and 10; then take half of 7 and 8, which makes 11. From 11 to 12 is 3/4 inch. Draw line up to 13; from 1 to 14 is 1/8 of size, or 2 3/8 inches for this size, or chest measure. It should be known that for special measurement we use the chest measurement as a size number for all parts of the garments except the bust and the other special measurements. From 14 to 15 is 1 inch. Draw the shoulder line from 15 to 13; 16 and 12 is the same as always. From 8 to 31 is one-eighth of chest, or 2 3/8 inches; from 32 to 33 and from 33 to 34 is also one-eighth of chest. Draw a line from 31 against 34 and measure the front depth, which is 28 on the scale, or 14 inches; from this 14 inches take off 2 3/8 inches for the back of neck, which is at I to 14, and take this off at 35 to 36. Draw a parallel line from 35 to 37 parallel with line 33 and 34; from 37 to 38 is one-eighth of chest. Measure the bust from 7 to 39, which is 41 inches, or half of it, 20 1/2 inches. From 5 to 18 is one-eighth of chest; from 6 to 17 is one-twelfth of chest; from 17 to 20 is 1 inch;