Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/258

249 LESSON 137.

No. 1.—HOW TO DRAFT A JACKET BY SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS. The art of cutting garments by special measurements are of great use to all who cut garments for all kinds of builds, When drafting be careful to make use of all measurements that are taken. To save trouble check off all measurements that are used, so as not to have any mistakes; also memorize the names of measurements to know which measurement you are using. For this draft measurements are as follows :

Begin to draft. From A to B is 7 1/2 inches depth; from A to C is 15 inches natural waist length; from C to D is 6 inches hip length; from A to E is 28 inches for full length. Before crossing the lines place the under arm length 7 inches from the waist line up to the breast line, and from C to F this under arm length measure gives a test for the depth from A to B; this under arm length shows if the depth is being taken short or long for the body measure. Now divide the space which is left between the depth and side length, which makes G. Cross all lines from A. G, C, D and E, and measure on the hip line from D to H, which is 1 1/2 inches; and on the waist line from C to I is 2 inches; then cross lines from H to I and from I to A. This is the body or guide line for the fitting from where all measures begin, and J is the depth point on the body line. Measure from J to K, 25 inches for arm blade, which makes 12 1/2 inches; from K to M is only 3 inches. Bear in mind that the chest measure is the size number. Draw a line from M to N; from N to P and P to O, which is one-sixth of size, or 3 1/8 inches. Cross a line from M to O up to R, this is the front depth line; then place the front depth measure 28 on the size number on the scale, or 14 inches, which is half of 28; from M to O and R take off one- sixth of size for the back neck at A to V and from R to Q. Point Q shows that the form for which this measure was taken is somewhat short in front. This amount of shortness in front is shown on the draft at front depth point from Q to O. This special outline distinctly shows the build of the body according to the measurements. Now draw a straight line from O to S, which is one-sixth of size, following the line of O and P. Now cross a line out from S to T, which is also one-sixth of size, or 3 1/8 inches for a 38 size. This outline shows the change of neck made according to special measurement. Cross a line from O to J as this line is the foundation for the front shoulder.