Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/256

247 THE RIGHT WAY TO TAKE SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS.

In taking a customer's measure it is absolutely essential that the per- son feel perfectly at ease in every way. The measure should be taken over a shirt waist or blouse. No jacket should be worn when measurements are taken. It is understood that special measurements cannot be taken without a corset. When taking measurements it is proper to see that the person stands in a natural position, in order to get the proper measurements of the way the person is built, otherwise the pose will inevitably and unconsciously result in a misfit, causing trouble and unpleasantness.

Be very careful in measuring to place the 'tape close to the body— neither too tight nor too loose—and see to it that the tape is not slanting. The success of special garment cutting depends greatly on the balance, which the measurements alone can ascertain. It is, therefore, necessary that the body of the person should be in its natural pose when the measurements is taken. I must again impress upon you the necessity of so arranging mat- ters so that the person keeps her body in its proper pose while measuring as there are a great many whose natural build is somewhat sloping, and who will stand erect, which should be avoided, during the act of measuring.

The measurements according to this system is taken, without exception, alike for all garments. In order to make it practical, it is proper to memorize the names of the measurements and also to know the number of measurements as follows:

The first measurement, which I call front depth, is taken from the center of back at A, and taken all around at the front of armhole towards the back and again up to A.

The second, which is arm blade, is taken the same way as the front depth, and from A around towards the back to the center to B.

Third: Back depth from A to B.

Fourth: Natural waist length from A to C.

Fifth: Full length of garment from A to D.

Sixth: Chest is all around I to E, which is size of garment. Seventh: Bust is taken all around at F.

Eighth: Waist is taken all around at G.

Ninth: Hip is taken all around at N.

Tenth: Inside sleeve length is taken from I to J.

Eleventh : Under arm is taken from I to K.

Twelfth: Front waist length is taken from the center of back at A down to the front to G.

This completes the measurements for the upper part of the body for all kinds of jackets, blouses, waists or dresses. For skirts take measurements as usual—waist, hip, front length, side length and back length.