Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/255

Rh These sections of the form can be seen by carefully looking over the measurements after they have been taken. It is understood that this requires a little practice in special garment cutting', in order to know the use of every measurement which is taken, as follows: The first measurement we call the front depth—this measurement gives us the build of the form in front and shows us whether the form is long in front over the chest and high at neck. The second measurement is called the arm blade—this measurement gives us the width of back; it also shows us if the width of back is round. This measurement carries a great responsibility for the size needed as regards the chest, that is, if the arm blade measurement is over-built or increased, and the front decreased. Should this lie the opposite way, the arm blade measurement should be a very narrow one. and means that the chest of this garment will be a very large one.

It should be known that if the arm blade is very large, according to the size, that this means a round back. Regarding a correct understanding of what we call over-built for this size, I explain as follows: The regular arm blade for size 36 is about 32 inches, which means one-half or 11 inches. If the measurement should be 23 inches or 11 1/2 inches, one-half of it, it means 1/2 inch over-built from the regular arm blade for 3G size. It should be understood that this increased arm blade means an increased width of back. The third measurement is called back depth. This measurement gives us the depth in back from the neck to the bottom of the armhole. The fourth measurement is the natural waist length. This measurement gives the correct length in back from the neck down to the hollow of the waist. The fifth measurement is the full length of the coat from the neck in back to the length of the garment needed. The sixth measurement is the chest. This measurement gives the guide for the size of garment by which it is regulated. The seventh measurement is the bust. This measure gives the full extent of the bust increase or the fulness of the bust. The eighth measurement is the waist. This measurement is taken over the smallest part of the waist and gives the idea whether the waist is over-built for the size wanted and how much it is over-built. The ninth measurement is the hip. This measurement is to show if the hip is full, medium or flat for its regular measurement. The tenth measurement is the inside sleeve length from underarm to waist. The eleventh measurement is the side body from underarm down to the waist length on the side. The twelfth measurement is the long waist in front from the socket bone (or from the back collar button) to the long waist in front. This measurement will show how much the waist in front is lower than the natural waist line, or how much the form is French waisted.

For further instructions see the diagrams and rules of taking special measurements.