Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/250

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LESSON 130.

HOW TO GRADE THE JUNIOR SLEEVE.—SIZES 12 TO 13.

Before commencing to grade we should complete the pattern on a separate sheet of paper and separate the top and under sleeve. Mark out the top sleeve from A, H, G, F, D and C to B, then cross lines from D to A and from D to B. At B we increase the difference of width wanted on the size of the bottom of sleeve. From A to H we increase the width of sleeve wanted on the top. First divide the space between A and D which makes E, then square a line up from E and F and from E to G and from E to H. These lines should be straight in order to grade the sleeve as simple as possible. Increase A to I 1/4 inch, lost against M, L and K; from C to K we increase the difference of length of sleeve wanted; this increase amounts to 1 inch, which is finished at J. This completes the top sleeve.

Mark out the undersleeve on a separate sheet of paper, then cross a line from A against C; this line produces the width of bottom of sleeve; at D increase first the length of this sleeve from B and E, and from G to H the same amount as on the top sleeve. Increase a line from A against B; from B to E is 1/4 inch all the way down lost equal to the bottom; from G to H is the same space. This completes the undersleeve curve.