Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/248

239 LESSON 129.

HOW TO GRADE A JUNIOR'S LONG CAPE.—SIZE 12 TO 13.

Before commencing to grade always complete the pattern and mark out on a separate sheet of paper. Always mark out the back first, as shown on the diagram, from A, D, G and C to B; cross a line at the depth part from X and G, then connect a line from X against D in order to increase the neck part for a larger size, and increase in height from A and E, for the depth 1/4 inch, and from D to F 1/4 inch. This increase should be carefully made according to the changes of the different sizes wanted. Begin to increase for the width from G to H; from C to I is 1/8 inch; from B to Y and from C to J we should increase the length. It can be made to any length wanted. This increase amounts to 1 inch. This completes the grade of the back part of this cape.

Begin the front by marking out on a separate sheet of paper as shown on diagram from O, N and M, and from L, T, K and P to O; then cross a line at the breast from N to T and from N square a line up to the shoulder point. This line originates from the front armhole. Now cross a line from N against the beginning of the neck point at P, and cross a line against K; now increase for the larger size from O to Q and from P to R; K to S 1/4 inch, and from N to X and M to U we also increase 1/8 inch. Before we make the increase at the front for this cape we should carefully consider this front, and look at the proportional measurements for the larger size wanted. Grade from this size in order to know the difference in breast measurements. When we have 1 inch difference on the breast between size 12 and 13 we should take one-half of this increase between the two sizes and increase the same from the size 12 up to the size 13, as we have increased the back 1/8 inch; at the side is also 1/8 inch, consequently we have left for the front 1/4 inch, which is from T to V and from L to W; from K to S we should always have one-half of the increase, which is made from T to V and from L to W; from L to Y we should increase the length to same amount as we have at the back from B to Y and from I to J. Be careful to keep in mind the size needed to be increased from the ordinary model size. Junior sizes are followed by single instead of double sizes. This completes the grading of the junior's size.