Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/246

237 LESSON 128.

HOW TO GRADE A LONG BOX COAT.—SIZE 12.

Before beginning to grade this garment we should always complete the pattern. Mark out the back separately, as shown on the diagram. From A, B, C, G, F, E and D, mark lines to breast line from F to B. B is the depth point which is taken off the draft from A to B; cross a line from B against D in order to get the increase of neck for the back part, also cross a line from B and E in order to get the increase for the shoulder point at the back. Increase for the difference of depth from A to N and from D to M, also increase from E to L for the width of shoulder 1/4 inch; from F to K and from G to J is 3/8 inch; from C to H and from J to I is 1 inch; increase for the length. This completes the back part.

To begin the front, mark out the front as usual from E, U, K, O, M, I, H and F. When the front is all complete mark out. We should carefully decide what size we want to be graded from this size pattern. When two sizes are needed to be graded we should first look at the original size of this pattern, which is size 12, and measure 32 inches for bust measurement. In order to get the 14 size we should look for bust measurement, which is 31 inches. The difference of these two sizes is 2 inches, and in order to follow this half way we should make this 1 inch difference. To begin to increase the front increase from K to L and from O to X 1/8 inch, and from E to B and to A is the shoulder part of 1/4 inch. Before we increase the front we look over the increase we have made regarding the width at the back and front side, which measures 1/2 inch. Now we have another 1/2 inch increase, which is allowed from I to J, and from H to D we should increase towards the front one-half the amount between I and J; from AX to N and from O to P we allow the same for the length, increasing, as we have, at the back in order to get the right increase at C to H. We should get a straight line up at the front of armhole from W to U and mark the double-breasted front allowance from I and X, which is 3 inches, in order to divide from W to X, which makes V; cross a line from U to A and from V against F and H in order to get the right connections for the neck part of this garment.

We should grade the place for pocket. The original pocket is shown at the line from R to O. From S and T is shown in a larger size pocket; from R to S and from Q to T is 1/2 inch. This completes the grading of size 12 box coat and increased for size 14.