Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/244

235 LESSON 127.

HOW TO GRADE A JUNIOR BLOUSE FROM SIZE 15 TO 17.

Before beginning to grade, cut out the front and back patterns and mark out each one on a separate sheet of paper. We first begin the back part. Draw a line from 10 to 11, following the waist length at the back. Move the back patterns in from 10 to A and 11 to D 1/8 inch; this 1/8 inch is to increase the neck part at the back. In order to go further we should look up the waist and length for the 15 and 17 sizes. In order to see the difference between the two lengths, which is 14 1/4 for size 15 and 14 3/4 for size 17. This is 1/2 inch, the difference between the two sizes. We therefore increase from A up and from L to 9; from M to H is 1/4 inch, so from D to 13 and from 4 to 14 1/4 inch at the waist. This means that we have divided or increased this amount, which is the difference between the two sizes, to equal parts; half at the top and half at the bottom. From M to N is 1/8 inch; from 5 to B is 1/4 inch; from 4 to 12 is 1/8 inch. This completes the back part. To begin the front part: Before we begin the front part we should decide how much we have increased the width at the back part, which should be decided at the breast line. We have increased at T, which is the breast line, 1/8 inch, and from B to 5 is 2/8 inch, which amount: to 3/8 inch. We should know how much there is to be increased regarding the width. For this purpose we should look up the breast measurements of the two sizes, which are sizes 15 and 17 The breast measurement of size 15 is 33 inches, and the breast measurements of 17 is 35 inches. We should find the difference of the two measurements, which is from 33 to 35. This space amounts to 2 inches. We should grade half of this amount, which is 1 inch, as we have used 3/8 inch, and have 5/8 inch more to be increased for the front part. Begin to grade the front. Draw a line from 1 to 2 and place the front against this line and make the curve follow the front neck from 2 to 7. Now move the pattern back from 1 to X, from 2 to Z and from 7 to O, then divide the space between 7 and O, which makes S—this is the middle line of the space—and curve S to 2, which is the proper neck part. From O to S and from U to 8 is 1/4 inch; from 6 to C and from 3 to 9 is 1/8 inch. This completes the increase of the additional 5/8 inch for the front. Increase from 3 to E and from X to 15 1/4 inch for lengthening the waist, just as well as we have increased the back. For different sizes, larger or smaller, increase or decrease the same way. This completes this grading.