Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/242

233 LESSON 126.

HOW TO GRADE MISSES' SKIRT.—SIZE 16. The skirt for misses' size are to be named the same as the jacket for model size. It should be known that the misses' skirt, size 16, should carry the waist and hip measurements of the size 16 jacket. Before commencing to grade complete the gores of skirt needed. This skirt for grading has five gores. Cut out and separate all gores and mark them out on a sheet of paper and do not increase the front in width. Whatever width increasing is needed it should be increased only on the inside gores, the same as size 36 skirt is graded. The front of this skirt is increased in length—it does not remain the same in length.

The length changes as shown on diagram. Before increasing the inside gores for the width, measure from G to X. The hip space of this size is showing for grading this skirt; cross a line for both gores from X against I and from Z against O and increase in width from I to K and from O to O as much as is needed for waist measurement. This increase should be parallel all the way down to the bottom from J to T and P to R. The lengthening of this skirt should amount to about 1 inch from B to E, from D to F, from H to Y, from J to M, from N to V and from R to S. This completes the grading of the misses 16 size skirt. For any other skirt allow in width whatever overbuilt from 16 up to a larger waist, equally separated, and no allowance is made whatever to the front in width.

The same is to be done in decreasing for whatever size wanted.