Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/238

229 LESSON 123.

HOW TO GRADE A MISSES' SIZE FRENCH SEAM TIGHT-FITTING.

Before commencing to grade be very careful to look over the proportionate measurements for misses' size. In order to see the difference of increasing between the depth and natural waist length and the width from one size to another and so get the different depths to be made. The depth and waist length should increase in length twice as much as the women's sizes according to the proportionate measurements. Complete the French seam tight-fitting and cut out each gore separately on a sheet of paper and mark them all around. We first start the back part one; from A to D is the depth point at the back; cross a line from D to E and D up to F; cross an outline from the waist and hip and increase from A to I, E to J, F to K 1/4 inch for the depth raising; now allow on the waist a snug 1/8 inch from G to L and from H to M; allow 1/8 inch for the increase, then make curves from I, J, K, L and M. This completes part one.

To begin part two also have the depth line at B and G; cross a line from B against H, which is the back shoulder point; from A to I and from H to J is 1/4 inch; from G to K, F to L, E to M, is also 1/8 inch; now connect curves I, J, K and L to M. This completes part two. For part three allow inside part from D and G, from E to H and from F to I 1/8 inch. Begin part four, or the inside part of front. After having marked all out on a separate sheet of paper, cross a line from B against E in order to meet the front point for this shoulder; from A to I and from E to L is 1/4 inch; from B to G, C to H and D to J increase 1/8 inch; increase 1/8 inch in front from L down to M, then look over the gores before increasing the front. We have increased 1/8 inch to five parts of the garment, and we have a balance to be increased in front of 3/8 inch, which is increased from D to H and from E to I and from A to F; from C to G is 1/4 inch for raising up the depth; cross line from H and D to J; cross a line from J against C to make the front neck point at G; from C to G should be 1/4 inch to parallel curve at H. This completes the fifth part. The total amount for grading between 16 and 18 is 1 inch half way. Follow same instructions for all misses' sizes, grading.