Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/234

225 LESSON 121.

HOW TO GRADE MISSES' BLOUSE, SIZES 16 TO 18.

To grade, cut out the front and back pattern and begin to grade the back first; place the back part on a sheet of paper and mark out the back from 10 to 11. Shift the back part towards the inside 1/8 inch from A to 10 up from L to 9; and from M to H is 1/4 inch; from M to N is 1/8 inch and from 5 to B is 1/4 inch; from 4 to 12 is 1/8 inch. After having the back completed it is proper to memorize the amount which has been allowed for the width and length of this part. In the length, which we grade from A to 10, from L to 9 and from M to H, is 1/4 inch, which means an increase for the height or length of waist. Between the two different sizes and width we have graded 3/8 inch, and the outside of T is 1/8 inch; between 5 and B we increased 1/4 inch. In order to begin the front grading we should know how much more is to be allowed in front in regard to the width, also we have to allow for the height. In order to begin the front we draw a line from 1 to 2 and make the curve to 7; now shift the pattern inside from 2 to Z and 1 to X, and from 7 to S 1/2 inch, the increase from 6 to C 1/8 inch. Before we go any further we should see that the grading is sufficient between one size and another. The grading that we now do is to increase from size 16 to 18, which is 2 inches for full width between the two sizes, or 1 inch half way for grading. This means that size 18 measures at breast 36 inches; size 16 measures at breast 34 inches. In order to know the amount to be graded we should take half of 36, which makes 18, and half of 34, which makes H. Here we clearly see the space which is graded and which between 17 and 18 is 1 inch. Now we have to see if we graded this 1 inch, we have graded 3/8 inch to the back width, we have graded to the front 5/8 inch in width, which is 1/2 inch in front and 1/3 inch to the side. This totals 8/8 of an inch, or the full 1 inch, and completes grading of width in regard to the height, which is increased from the breast line up to the shoulder point. We always follow the proportions between the size, which is 1/4 inch from U to 8 and from O to S, the same as the back part. In order to get the neck part right we should divide from O to 7, which makes S or the middle curve, and curve to 2, which is the front part. When everything is completed, finish the curve at the side and waist line at E. Follow the same instructions for this grading for smaller sizes, which should be decreased, as the larger size.