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223 LESSON 120.

HOW TO GRADE A FIVE-GORE SKIRT FROM 2o TO 26 WAIST MEASURE.

Before grading the skirt we first complete the pattern and allow all seams. When all seams are allowed place each gore on a different sheet of paper to be graded. The front of each gored skirt should not be graded. This should remain the same for all sizes and the grading should be only done at the inside parts or gore. When increasing the side gore, increase towards the back. Always keep in mind the waist and hip measurements needed as the size of the original pattern. Commence to grade, mark out the inside gore No. 2, I, G, H and J up to I; increase towards the back from I to K: J to L is one-half of the amount to be increased, and the other one-half should be increased at the third gore from O to R and from P to O, as shown on the diagram. Before increasing this amount we should keep in mind the waist measurement needed, as the size of the original waist measurement. Now suppose the waist measurement for this original is 25 inches, this makes 12 1/2 inches half way. Should we want a 26-inch waist skirt, we should also take one-half of this, which makes 13. and watch the increase between 12 1/2 and 13. This difference makes 1/2 inch. Allow from I to K 1/4 inch, and from O to R 1/4 inch all the way down. This completes the system of grading for skirts. When many gores are wanted we divide this 1/2 inch into as many gores as are wanted, except the front of the skirt.