Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/23

Rh Model pattterns should be tested before they are used for fashion work or garding. The testing should begin at the depth of size, natural waist length or full length coat. The size should be carefully examined at the neck and and armhole, as these parts of the coat are the most important parts built for the size, otherwise the size is not measured across for the size it is only a controlling number for its use.

The bust measurement directly adapted for the connection to the size or so called chest measure, the bust measure is an increase on the chest line and it shows the development of bust. This bust measurement is changed into action after drafted are required.

A bust line is, therefore, adapted which is taken from or between the regular breast or chest line to the natural waist line in front, and where the breast can be measured to the depth of size on hack where a special line shall be made across.

The waist is measured on the waist line in front of the garment. The waist shall be measured on the long waist snug. The waist measuring shall be carefully considered on tight fitting It is not necessary to measure the waist for half fitting garment. It should be 3 inches more than the waist measures. The waist for box coats shall not be measured.

The hip shall be measured the same way as the waist on the hipline. The hip shall always be measured full for all parts of the garment seams shall be taken off first and after, the inside space shall be measured. The bottom of short coats shall not be measured. Full length coats or capes shall measure half way as much as the full length of the garment measurement. Suppose the length of the coat or cape is 50 inches, the half of your coat or cape shall measure also 50 inches. This means that the full bottom shall be 100 inches.