Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/226

217 LESSON 114. HOW TO GRADE A SLEEVE. When grading sleeves it does not make any difference whether the sleeve is cut with or without fullness. The grading is always done the same way. Before commencing to grade cut out the top and undersleeve, separate and place them on a separate sheet of paper and mark them out all around. Commence at the top sleeve and mark out the original top sleeve from D, E, F, G, A, I, B, C and D to H; H is 1/2 of the inside length; from D to C, cross a line from M to B in order to have the right increase for the cuff to all sizes; then cross a line from D to A; N is one-half of A and D; cross lines out as shown; F is one-half of the circle between A and D; G is about one-half of A and F; E is one-half of F and D; increase from A to M 1/-4 inch, from I to J is 1/4 inch; from B to K is 1/8 inch; from C to L is about 1/2 inch; now connect with lines all around from L and K to M at the top from G to O and F to P; at F to Q allow 1/4 inch lost, as shown on diagram. The increase begins with the same amount as from A to M, 1/4 inch, and always lost at Q, as shown on diagram. This completes the top sleeve.

The undersleeve is increased the same way. At the outside lap, from R to Y we should have a line drawn from W; from R to Y is 1/4 inch; increase from S to 3, which is 1/4 inch; from T to 4 is 1/8 inch. Allow 1/2 inch from U to 5 and T to 4 in order to have the same length as the top sleeve. V is one-half of W and U; cross a line from U to T out to 4 in order to have the right increase at the bottom. Curve the armhole from Z to V in order to match the curve of the original sleeve. This completes the grading of the sleeve.