Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/224

215 LESSON 113.

HOW TO GRADE A TIGHT-FITTING FRENCH SEAM, 36 TO 38.

Before we begin to grade we cut out each part separately. This garment consists of five parts. Be careful to have the breast and waist lines in parts as shown on diagram. Begin at the back and mark out all around from A, E, F, G, H, C, B and D up to A; cross lines from the depth point, which makes D to E and F; allow 1/8 inch from A to I, E and J; from F to K same as from H to M; from G to L should be a snug 1/8 inch; now make a curve from I to J and L to M. This completes the back part.

To begin the second part, mark out the original pattern on another sheet of paper; cross a line from the arm point to B and from B to H; make a line increase from H to J, and from A to I is 1/8 inch, raised to the arm depth; allow 1/8 inch from G to K; from F to L the second 1/8 inch, and from E to M 1/8 inch. Curve lines as shown from I, J, K. L and M. This completes the second part.

To begin part three, which is the underarm side body, increase at the inside part from D to G and from E to H; from F to I is 1/8 inch; curve a line as shown to the breast line. This completes part three. Begin part four, which is the inside part of front; mark out the original part from A, E, F, D, C and B, all around the armhole up to A; draw a line from B to the shoulder point in front to E, which makes the increase in front; then increase from B to G and from C to H; from D to J is 1/8 inch, and make a line as shown on diagram. Allow at the shoulder for the depth increase from A to I, and from E to L is 1/8 inch. Allow 1/8 inch from E to L all the way down from F to M. This completes part four.

Before we commence the outside front part, or part five, we should look over the increase in width that we have made for the raised and gores. We have allowed for the back part 1/8 inch, and for the inside part of back 1/8 inch; for the underarm body 1/8 inch, and for the underarm side in front also 1/8 inch, and towards the front also 1/8 inch. This amounts to 5/8 inch, which is allowed for the width. We should see that the amount left is increased for the front. In order to make the increase of 1 inch we have yet 3/8 inch left to be increased in front; allow on the front part from D to H and from E to I 3/8 inch; cross a straight line from E to H to J for the inside part of this draft, and connect from J against C for the neck point in front an allow for the depth point from A to F; from C to G 1/8 inch; from C to G towards the front we allow 1/4 inch, and lost parallel for G to H with a cure as shown on diagram.