Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/222

213 LESSON 112.

HOW TO GRADE A TIGHT-FITTING GARMENT, 36 TO 38.

Before commencing to grade this garment cut out all parts separately and mark them out on a separate sheet of paper as usual. When commencing to draft lines for the required proportions be careful to have the waist and breast line accurate. We always begin to grade part of the back first, After having all your outlines marked out separate count them over carefully and see how many parts in which the garment is divided. This garment has front and back and two side bodies. This means that this garment is cut in four pieces. Increase at the depth point at the back from A to B and from D to J; from E to K is 1/8 inch, the same all around from F to L, from G to M and from H to N. This completes the back part, or part one. Begin the side body, or part two, and increase the width 1/8 inch from A, H and I; from B, T and C to K and D to L. This completes part 2. Now increase part three, or the underarm side body, from F to G, from E to H; from D to I is 1/8 inch. This completes part three. At the very last we should begin to grade the front part, or part four. Before beginning the front look up the increase that has been made for the raised parts and count the increase in order to know the balance of increase for the front. We should always increase 1/8 inch at the side part, which is from B, O, C, P, and D to Q. Count the increase which you have made to all parts. At the back we have 1/8 inch. The underarm side body is also 1/8 inch, and at the side of front we also have 1/8 inch. This means we have increased 1/2 inch, so now we have another 1/3 inch to be increased. All this is allowed at the outside part from I to S, from H to R, and from L to M towards the front or neck point. From L to M we increase a snug 1/4 inch, which is lost with 1/8 inch to K and U and J to T; increase one-half of the amount you have increased from I to S for the width of the lapel. Now follow the breast line for the size 38 out-lines. For all sizes follow the same instructions.