Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/220

211 LESSON 111. HOW TO GRADE A HALF-FITTING' SEAM JACKET. To grade this garment we also complete the pattern and cut out the original parts in order to have the breast and waist line and all other foundations. Mark each part of the garment separately on a separate sheet of paper before commencing to grade this pattern. We have to keep in mind that this garment is cut in four parts, two for back and two for front. Begin to grade at the back; from A to B is the depth line. Cross a line against D from the depth point and also a line from B to E and increase from A to H and from D to I; from E to J is 1/8 inch for increase of depth; from F to K increase a full 1/16 inch, as this part of the waist of garment should increase a very small amount; from G to L increase a full 1/8 inch. Draw lines as shown from H and I to J and K to L to make the 38 size. Now mark out the second part, from M, N, O, P, R, S, K, and T to M; from M to T is 3 inches. Draw a line from T against N in order to extend the shoulder line: increase all around 1/8 inch from M to U, from N and V, and from O to W; from P to Y and R to X is 3/16 inch. Curve as shown on the diagram. Be careful to draw a straight line, which is increased from the breast at O and W, as this space from O to P and W to Y is not increased in height. The increase is only made from the depth up from W up to N and V and U. This completes the second part. To begin part 3, or the inside part of front, mark out the original pattern, A, B, C, D, E, and F up to A; also increase at the side from C to J, D to K, E to L, a full 1/8 inch. From B to X and A to N is 1/8 inch; increase for the height and from A and N towards the front to F and Q, also 1/8 inch increased for size 38. In order to get the right point towards the front, draw a line from C against A to make N, as this line gives the original increase for this part of the garment. Begin part 4, or the front part. Before making the front part we should always look up the increase we have made to all raised parts. Look over the increase that we have made at the back, side and inside part. In order to know the increase, we look up carefully each separate part. Side and inside part of front we have increased 1/8 inch. This 1/8 inch should be increased full in order that this 3/8 inch should amount to 4/8 of 1/2 inch. At the inside part of the front we have increased 1/8 inch; this will amount to 5/8 inch. As mentioned already, we have to increase 1 inch from one size to another to complete one size. Now see the outlines that you have to increase. We have increased 5/8 inch, so we have a balance of 3/8 inch left for the front, then place this 3/8 inch from V to A and from W to B for the front increase. Now increase the depth from R to Y; from S to Z is 1/8 inch towards the front, and from S to O always increase with a snug 1/4 inch, lost to XX with 1/8 inch only. Towards the front from U to C always increase one-half of the amount that is increased between V and A. Make the increased line from Y, Z, XX, C and A to B. This completes the fourth part. When grading, be careful to look over each gore to see that it is graded. We must at times grade every part towards the front in order to increase the width, and also one side of every gore is graded. The inside part of front, or part 3, is graded on both sides, as this part of the garment answers two purposes; first, under the armhole to finish up the increase effect towards the back, and the other, which is the bust increase. This completes the grading of the half-fitting French seam jacket.