Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/22

13 A TEST OF SYSTEMATICAL KNOWLEDGE AND THEIR PRINCIPLES. A system of designing and garment cutting will be carried out with a great many principles. The first one of our principles is to know the different sorts of fittings, as the tight fitting, three-quarter fitting, half fitting and full fitting. Every one of these garments shall be adopted in a different manner and shape. The tight fitting garment has its strict fitting points, the spaces between gores are not changeable for any reason. Before measuring tight fitting garments have seams taken off both sides of the gores, and after measuring for each gore it shall amount to half the waist measure wanted for the size. The ha!f fitting garments shall be tested the same way as the tight fitting, except the waist. It is not necessary that the waist for half fitting garments shall be tested. Should you want to measure it, it should measure half of the size wanted without the seams taken off for size 36 the waist should measure 18 inches, including seams. The hip for half fitting garments shall be always full. The three-quarter fitting garment shall be tested the same way as the tight fitting, and shall also carry the same gores as the tight fitting garment. The waist of this garment shall be increased with the curving or shaping of the waist, which makes it three-quarter fitting. This garment shall only be drafted from a tight fitting outline and no other. The full fitting, which is called a box coat, is cut only in two parts; no shape or waist effect is required, therefore the waist at the hip is not measured for this garment. It is tested only across the chest and bust, the hips shall be cut very full.

The test of patterns is, to a great extent, necessary for those who wish to be accurate in their measurements.