Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/218

209 LESSON 110

HOW TO GRADE A LONG CAPE, SIZES 36 TO 38.

In beginning to grade cut out front and hack pattern and mark out first part on a separate sheet of paper. Mark out the back from A, D, G, and C to B up to A and X; G is the breast line. Draw a line from X against D, which will increase the space for a larger size from E to F or for a smaller size below A. Increase size 36 to size 38; increase from A to E and from D to F 1/8 inch; from G to H is 1/4 inch all the way down to C and I. If a longer cape is wanted for larger sizes increase from B to Y and I to J 1/2 inch. This completes the back grading. In order to begin the front part for grading mark out front on a sheet of paper, cross a line on front pattern at T and X. Draw a line from N to O out to O and draw bias line for increasing at K and P, following the slantness of O and O; from K to S, from P to R and from O to O is 1/8 inch; increase from Size 36 to 38 and from X to X all the way down to M; U is 1/4 inch. Now use the cure from Q to X, as shown on the diagram with a broken line all the way down to Z; from T to V and L to W is 1/2 inch; increase from V to Y; U to Z is 1/2 inch, for increasing the length from one size to another. It is not necessary to grade women's sizes in length, as all sizes can remain alike in length. The size for itself grades at the upper part from the breast line up to the neck. For smaller sizes decrease to the same amount as we increase for larger sizes; reduce 40 size to a 36 the same way. This completes this grading.