Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/213

Rh CORRECTION ON GRADING. When commencing to grade be very careful to remember the size of the model pattern, also the size to be graded, or increase from the model pattern. It is also proper to keep in mind the different sections that are used for designing and garment cutting, which are as follows: the women's sizes, misses' sizes, juniors' sizes and children's sizes. We need to keep in mind the different sections in order to know what increase is necessary for their sections. It is also proper to know what proportionate measurements are required for the different model sizes for either section.

Be careful to have all seams allowed before grading. It should not make any difference what sort of pattern is used or what the size of the garment is. Whatever part of the garment it is, we should always be sure the seams are allowed. Folds, seams and shirring are not to be graded, for the simple reason that all the grading that is to be done is followed according to the most outgoing part of the garment.

MANUAL OF GRADING SIZES. The grading sizes for the medium women's sizes. We use size '36 for the model pattern.

For the misses, size 16 for the model pattern.

For the junior size we use size 15 for the model pattern.

For the children's size we use size 6 or 10 for the model pattern.

For infants' size we use size 4 for a model pattern.

For the regular stouts, which are women's sizes only, we use size 45 for a model pattern.

For short stouts we use size 42 for a model pattern.

For extra stouts we should use size 48 for a model pattern.

The grading for all these stouts are to be followed according to the space between size, as usual.

The skirts for all different sizes should be graded according to the waist and hip measurements only.

Lengths for all skirts have no special rule.