Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/202

193 to 10 is 1/2 inch; cross a line from 9 to 10 and from 10 to E down to 25; from 4 to 3 is 1/2 inch; cross line from G to 3 against 5 down to 22, which makes the hip lines at the side. Now begin the dart in front; divide from F to Y, which makes X; measure the space X to Y and place the same on the waist line from 7 to 30; cross a straight line down from X against 30 down to 29. Be careful to have the bottom from 14 to 29 about 3/4 inch more than on the waist line from 1 to 30; from 30 to 31 is 1/2 inch, the same as from 29 to 32; cross a line from 31 to 32 for the side part of front; divide X and 30, making 28; divide the shoulder at the front; from O to U makes 27; allow both sides of 27, 3/8 inch for seams, which makes 36 and 37; cross first a line from 36 to 28 and from 37, with a space lost also to 38; curve the inside line from 36 lost at 30; curve a line from 37 to 38, and 28 and 31 as shown on the diagram. This completes the seam in front. To make the shawl collar for this garment, curve from O to R lost down to V and make the stand line from 2 to S out to W, as usual; from O to S is 1 inch for the stand space. Between W and 23 is the same as from O to S; from W to 24 is the width, of collar; make a curve from 24 to V lost at 2 for the shawl collar. The width of collar in front can be made to taste or style wanted. The under collar should be cut out from 24 and AX to 23, O and R to V. Should you want a top collar you cut out from 24, W and 23 straight down to XX; from XX to 2 and V up to 24. The top collar should always be traced before the collar is cut apart or the under collar is taken off. The pocket for this garment is shown on the diagram somewhat slant. The original place of pocket should always be at the middle part of hip space at the front. This pocket is begun with a 1/3 inch between 4 and E as shown at AX; cross a line from AX to 31 in front; take one-half of AX and 31, which makes 33; allow both sides of 33, 34. and 35 for one-sixth of size to make this pocket one-third of the size. Shape the flap in this pocket as shown on the diagram. Flaps can be made to any width wanted. This completes the French seam coat.