Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/200

191 LESSON 102.

FRENCH SEAM COAT.— SIZE TEN.

This garment is followed according to measurements of size 10. The measurements are as follows:

To draft, draw a line from A to R and from A to 15; from A to B is the depth; from A to C is the natural waist length; from A to 15 is the full length of garment, which is 30 inches; from C to D is one-third for hip space; cross all lines from A, B, C, D and 15; when having all lines crossed measuring from B to G and D to E two-thirds of size; cross a line up from E and G to U; divide from B to G, making H; from H to I is always 1 1/4 inches; raise line up as usual and connect a shoulder line from A to K, making one-sixth of the size; from K to L is 1 inch up, to make the shoulder line, and from L to M to I as usual; from M to N allow 3/4 inch; cross a line from M to I and the same from N down from G to F is one-sixth of the size; cross a line from F up to Q; from Q to P and from P to O is one-sixth of the size; cross a line from O to T as usual and measure the front shoulder from O to U the same as from L to M; connect a line from U to F for the front arm-hole; measure from D to 11 on the hip line one-twelfth of size, and from C to 12 is 1/2 inch more; cross a line from 12 up to A and against 11 down to the bottom, making 15; measure one-half of breast from T to X, and from X to Y allow 3 inches for seams; square a straight line down from Y to 6; from 6 to 7 allow 1/2 inch. We allow from T to 1 and from Y to Z 2 inches for button stand. This button stand is allowed for a single-breasted front; cross a straight line down from Z to 13 and 14; from 13 to 14 is 1 1/2 inches; from 12 to 16 is one-sixth of size, and from 11 to 18 is 1 inch more; cross a line from 16 to 18 down to 21 for the back; now divide the shoulder at the back from L to N, which makes 26 for the French seam; then cross a line from 26 to 16; from 16 to 19 is 1/2 inch, the same as from 18 to 17; cross a straight line down from 19 to 17 and down to 20. Make a curve at 19 lost to H. This completes the French seam at the back part. From G to 9 and from E to 5 is 3/4 inch space; cross a line from 5 up to 9; 8 is at the waist line; from