Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/198

189 LESSON 101.

CHILD'S BOX COAT.—SIZE SIX.

Before commencing to draft we first look up the measurements for the size wanted. The measurements for this garment are as follows

Begin to draw the outlines from A to R and from A to 16; from A to B is 5 inches deep; from A to C is 11 inches waist length; from C to D is one thirds inches full length; from C to D is one-third of size for the hip space; cross a line from A to R; from B to Z; from C to 5; from D to 8; from 16 to G. After having all lines complete, measure on the breast line from B to G and from D to E; on the hip line two-thirds of size or S 5/8 inches for this size; cross a line from E and G up to U; divide from B to G on the breast line, which makes H; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches; draw a line tip from I to J; from A to K is one-sixth of size; from K to L is 1 inch up; connect a line from L to J out to M. which makes the shoulder width; connect a square line down from M to I; make the top line in back: from D to 11 is one-twelfth; from C to 12 is one-half more; connect a line from 11 to 12 and from 12 up to A; from G to F is one-sixth of size; draw a line up from F to O; from O to P is one-sixth of the size; draw a line from O to T; cross the line for the front shoulder line; measure the front shoulder from O to U; before measuring the front shoulder measure the back shoulder from L to M and place the same from O to U; connect a line from U to F for the front arm hole; measure one-half of the breast, which is 26 for this size, or one-half is 13 inches from T to X; from X to Y is 3 inches for seams allowed: cross a line down from Y to 3 and 8 and 3, on the waist line; from 3 to 4 allow one-half inch and draw a line down from Y to 4 down to the bottom; allow the button stand from Y to Z, which is 3 inches; from 4 to 5, and from S to V, which is on the top; R to S is 1/2 inch up. and in order to raise for the closed neck. Now curve from S to V down to Z; from Z draw a straight line down to 6 and T; from 6 to 7 is 1 1/2 inches; divide at the armhole between the front and back; from I to G take one-half, which makes N; cross a straight line from N against E, which is the back line on hip down to 1; from 1 to XX is 1 inch up; curve from XX to 16; measure one-half of hip line from 8 to 9; from 9 to 10 is 1 inch, allowed for fullness; cross a line from G against 10 to 2; from G to 2 will be one-eighth longer than the length from N to XX. Now we mark the place for the pockets: cross a line down from F to 18 for the hip line; then take one-half between waist and hip, which is between G and 18, making 13; cross a line at 13 to a small slant towards the bottom in front and mark one-sixth of the size to both sides of 13, which makes 14 and 15. This makes one-third of size for pocket. In order to make the slant side pocket make from 17 to 20 in ch. and from 18 to 19 also 1 inch for the slantness; draw a line from 20 to 19, and from 19 to 22; 20 to 21 is the width of veil; curve the arm-hole as shown from M to N and G up to U. Always curve the shoulders as shown on diagram.

This garment is cut with all seams allowed. In case a seam is not needed, take 3/8 inch off at A and 16 across a line as shown on diagram. This completes the child's size 10 box coat.