Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/196

187 LESSON 100.

REEFER COAT.—SIZE SIX.

For this garment we should use all measurements, following size 6. This garment is cut in three parts. The measurements for this garment are as follows:

To draft, draw a line from A to R and from A to D; from A to B is the depth; from A to C is the natural waist length; from C to D is the hip length; the hip length is always one-third of size below the waist line; draw all lines as usual. From A, B, C and D, from B to G and D to E is two-thirds of size, or 8 3/4 inches for this size; draw a line from E to G up to U; take one half of B to G, which makes H; from H to X is 1 1/4 inches; cross a line up from N to J; make the neck space at the back; from A to K is one-sixth of size; from K to L is 1 inch; connect a line from L against J to M and square a line down from M to N, which makes the width of shoulder and also the width of back. In order to begin this back at the waist and hip we divide H and N, which makes I; place a straight ruler from J against I and square a line down from I to the waist line, which makes 16, and mark at the same time at the hip line, which makes 17; from 16 to 19 is 1/2 inch, and from 17 to 18 is 1 inch; connect 18 to 16 and IT to 19, then take one-half of I and N and cross a line up from 19 for a side body; take one-half between J and N which makes XX from XX to AX is 1 inch lower; cross a line from AX, as shown on the diagram, and curve the back between the space at N and I lost to 16, and at the same time curve from the same place to 19 lost to 17 and 18; from G to 9 is 3/4 inch; same from E to 5; cross a line from 9 to 5 for the side body, then increase the hip from the waist line down for the side body from 10 to E; draw a line from 4 to 3, which is 1/2 inch; from 5 to 8 is 3/4 inch; cross a line from 3 to 8 and from 3 to G. This completes the side for the front; from G to F is one-sixth of the size; cross a line up from F to Q, from Q to P; from P to O is one-sixth of the size; cross a line from O to T for the front shoulder. In order to measure the front shoulder we first measure the back shoulder from L to M and place the same from O to U; connect a line from U to F for the front arm-hole; measure the breast from T to X; from X we allow 3 inches for seams; cross a straight line from Y to 6; from Y to Z and from 6 to 7 is 3 inches allowed for button stand on the double-breasted front. From 7 to 1 is 1 1/2 inches; correct from 3 to 8 the hip length and connect with a curve on the bottom from 1; mark the opening of this coat at 2; from O to S is 1 inch for the stand line at the collar. When the line is crossed straighten out to 1/4 inch from O to 23; curve the neck from 23 out to V; from R to C is 2 1/2 inches; from V to W is the lapel measure of 3 inches; connect a line from W with a round stick lost to 2. From V to 25 is the notch of collar. This should be 1 inch less than from V to W; measure width of collar at the back, measuring from XB to 24, which is 2 inches; cross a line somewhat curved from 24 to 25; curve a small amount at the back collar 23 to 24; curve the hips from the waist as shown on the diagram. When curving the side body at the arm-hole allow 1/2 inch up at X and C and curve as shown.