Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/192

183 LESSON 98.

JUNIOR'S FIVE-GORE SKIRT.— SIZE TWELVE.

Before beginning the junior skirt we first look over the waist and hip measurements, and also the front length of the skirt. The front length for skirts can be changed at any time when wanted, as we have no standard length whatever for skirts. The full-length skirt for juniors shall be followed according to the breast number, which is 30 inches for size 12. Regarding the straight line, we can make it to any length wanted. The measurements for this skirt are as follows:

We draw a line from A to D and from A to B; from A to C is one-half of the waist measurement; from C to D is 2 inches; from D to M is 3 inches up; cross a line from M to A; from A to E is one-third of the size of this breast measurement; cross a parallel line for the hip according to the waist, which makes F; measure from E to F one-half of hip measurement; draw a line from M against F down to L, which makes the back length; curve from A and H to M, the waist line; measure from A to B, 30 inches; from H to K is 31 inches; from M to L is 32 inches for the back length; curve a line at the bottom from B, K and L; now make the front part from A; 1 is 2 inches up; from B to J is 4 inches. This completes the front.

Shape both sides of I about 1/8 inch to either size; divide from I to M, which makes H; measure over your waist from A to M and see the overbuilt from one-half of waist and take out whatever there is over-built on both sides of H at N and N; raise a small amount at N and X; before curving allow seams and curve from X, and N lost to the hip line and side seam. When no straight length is wanted follow the changes made in front to shorten length for about 3 inches; measure from B to O is 3 inches, which measure will make 27 inches in front; and from B to P is 6 inches short, which will make 24 inches, to the length in front. When one of these lengths is wanted be careful to curve to the back line equally. All seams should be allowed.