Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/188

179 LESSON 96.

A YOKE FOR BOX COAT.—SIZE FIFTEEN.

This yoke can be applied to any coat wanted, or to any size wanted. As a rule yokes should be cut for box coats or full garments only. After having the outlines all cut out, be careful to have the breast line cross the pattern, which is on this diagram. At the back, from A to B and X to D, after having these lines, we begin the yoke part at the back, as from A to E and from B to F is 1 1/2 inches, and when one-point yoke is wanted, to one-half back, divide E and F, which makes N; cross a straight line from N to M.

When a three-point yoke is wanted at the back, follow the breast line as shown on the diagram; from N to O is 1 inch; cross a line down from O to P and curve from P up to R, then down to A. At P we have a full point, and at A we have one-half point. When this garment is all cut out double we have at the center back one full point and one point to either side, which makes it a three-point yoke. When cutting this back for a yoke be careful to cut the center back on the fold of cloth in order to have no seams for this back. Follow the same instructions on the front from C to G and from D to H, which is 1 1/2 inches up; cross a line from G to H; be very careful to notice the button stand lines at the front, which is from L to H and from I to D, and to divide from the button stand, which is L to G, which makes J; cross a line from J to K for the one-point yoke on the front; curve from G to K, up to L, out to H. Should we want a three-point yoke in front, as shown on back, we also curve from L to D, according to breast line. This completes the outline of this yoke. When cutting out this garment be careful to cut both sides separately and allow seams as follows: From E, M and F, which is the back; from G, K, L and H, or if a breast line is wanted, from A, R, P and F and from J, K, L and D allow seams both sides. The upper part is the yoke, the bottom part is the lower part of this garment, when raised seams are wanted be careful to allow all space allowance, which is about 3/4 inch, or any other lapover that may he wanted. This completes the yoke garment.