Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/186

177 is 1/2 inch, from 27 to 29 is 1/2 inch, the same as from E to 30; from 12 to 15 is 3/4 inch; cross a line from 29 to 15 and from 15 up to G; from Z to 2 is one-eighth of the size; cross a line from 15 to 2, then divide the chest part for the dart. Divide from F to X, making 49; take the same from 50 to 17 and cross a line from 19 to 17 down to 21; divide from 17 to 49, making 28; from 17 to 18 is 1/2 inch; from 21 to 22 is 3/4 inch; from 17 to 19 is 1 inch: cross lines from 28 to 18 down to 22; from 28 to 19 and to 20; 20 is the square line from 18. Now square a line down from 20 to 24, then divide the front shoulder for the front seam; from O to U take one-half, making 32. Allow both sides of 32 to 33 and 34, 3/8 inch; now cross a line from 33 to 28; cross a line down to the front from 34 to 51; curve at 28 from 33 down to 18, and the same way from 34 to 51, 28 down to 19 and 20. This completes the French seam in front. Now curve the neck part from O to V lost to 40; from W to 40 is about 2 1/2 inches; cross a line up from 40 to 39 for the front lapel, which is also about 2 1/2 inches; mark the opening, which begins at 26. for this garment; cross a line from 26 to 35 to 26; 35 is 1 inch from O; from 35 to 36 is one-sixth of the size it should be. The space at the back from 36 to 37 and from 35 to O curve from 37 and O down to 40; make a curved line from 39 to 26; the collar from 36 to 38 is 2 inches in width; from 39 to 41 is about 1/2 inch space; from 40 to 41 is about 1 1/2 inches; make a straight line from 38 to 41 and curve as shown on diagram; make all curves by beginning at the back from A to L and from L to M to round the arm holes from N and 8 and G to U; from U to O is the front shoulder; shape both shoulders alike; shape the hip part from 5 to 7; from 6 to 31; from 11 to 30 and from 15 to 29, also the front from 19 to 20 and 24, also from 28, 18 and 22. Be careful to have the length from 20 and 24 the same as from 18 to 22; curve from 22 to 43 and 1/2 inch up. To make this jacket with a no-seam back take 3/8 inch off from A to 44 and from Y to 45 and cross a line as the line shows; use the increase that is above at the waist line from S to 46 and the same from S to 47 at the inside part of the back; All seams are allowed.

LESSON 95.

JUNIOR'S LONG CAPE.—SIZE TWELVE.

To begin this cape we draw the same lines as for a box coat. The button stand is 3 inches for a double-breasted coat front. When the draft of the box coat is all complete, draw a line up by the sides from 13 against 10 up to M and curve around from the shoulder at the back from L and M down to 10 and 14. This completes the back part. The front outline is also completed the same way. After having these side lines complete according to the hip measurement, raise the same line up to the shoulder line at U and curve from the front shoulder at O and U to N lost to 12. When cutting out this skirt cut the straight line at the back from A and E; from A to L, J to M, 10 and 14; from 13 to 14 is always 1 inch up-curve; 14 is lost to E. This complete's the back.